Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Replace with OEM. Record, champion makes an Aluminum 4 core unit. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Some people claim problems with quality, no quality problem on my spare radiator.
If this is truly a lifter problem, you need to replace it immediately before Diesel fuel gets beyond the diaphragm and thins out the oil and you score your cylinders and bearings or even seize the engine.
Faster if you tack down the zipper with pins and silicone.
Fish hook proof gloves from Dick’s sporting goods or your favorite angling shoppe are a necessity.
Easily one of the best and most exciting reads I’ve seen.
Freakin’ amazing pictures and write up!
Can’t say enough positive words.
This should be a sticky in the hot rods and modifications section.
Leaks on valve covers are typically because they are either bent or you did not apply the sealant properly. Specifically, you need to wipe the heads clean and then apply the sealant to the valve head and not to the valve cover.
Juanprado is correct. Always see what you got prior to forking out cash.
Drain the oil and look for water. Add marvel mystery BUT REMOVE the glowplugs BEFORE trying to turn over so you don’t hydrolock. If you don’t open the glowplugs or remove the injectors and you pour in liquid or you have...
Not meant to derail BUT that is the highest compliment I could possibly receive. This is why I post about these schematics every time someone mentions purchasing a PCB or an EESS or an aftermarket pushbutton unit.
:derailed:
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!