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Followed this sticky on the Hydraulic Head (which I have no idea how it works): http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head I pulled the center bolt and put a dowel rod in the hole. It might be my imagination but when cranking the engine...

Ive got money. Someone start my truck. Pretty Please.

Before I gave up last time I sprayed a liberal amount of PB Blaster under the cover. Today I went to mess with the truck and now the rod under the cover moves freely! I can flick it with my finger towards the rear of the truck and it springs forward easily on its own. That's good, right...

It doesn't spring easily - it has to be deliberately moved forward or backwards. I'm going to cut that safety wire and take it apart but I suspect all the magic and voodoo is going to make a run for it! I'll try my best. Up until now Ive actually enjoyed working on the truck - most things...

Someone please define any real resistance of the fuel rod since I have no comparison to make against. SO, before I end up killing this deuce for good would you describe the normal resistance of the fuel rod as: 1. flick it with your fingertip either direction? 2. push it with a force of...

I can move the rod forward and backward. I has some resistance but it moves. Still doesn't start even when I made sure the rod was forward and put the cover back on. I decided to try and bleed the lines at the lower lines to the injectors (not sure if thats what is the way to do it) and -...

So, the round doohickey slides horizontally (left and right in the picture)?

First, I apologize for not fixing my truck and waiting so long to address this. Removed the cover today and this is what I can't see since the frame rail is in the way (so took a picture): I don't see anything wrong but I also don't understand what I'm looking at.

The kill cable has always been kind of a pain to operate and Ive been dealing with it. I can see the rod going in and out with the cable though. Is there still a reason to remove the cover?

Ive had the truck for many years and it NEVER has failed to start. Until recently after sitting for a few weeks. Truck will run for a bit on starter fluid. Loosened the bleed on the drivers side filters. Fuel comes out with power on. Changed the fuel filters on the drivers side because...

^^^ Thats what I mean. Can't get just the right set of hardware. Its hard enough to reach the mounts in the first place. I keep getting pissed off because the hardware I keep "trying" doesn't fit right. I want it 100%. Nothing else will do. This is the kind of stuff that keeps me up...

Re-visiting this. I'm just dumb I guess and like my truck too much to put some cobbled crap on it. Can't seem to get just the right nuts, bolts, and washers for the two bottom alternator mounts. Bought all kinds of sets at Tractor Supply and tried them. They all end up wonky and don't fit...

Called GMA and I guess the days of the $200 tops are gone. Was quoted $360 plus shipping for a camo top. I don't want camo, I want green - they told me I'd have to order a minimum of 30. Where the heck do I get a green one?

Its broken down just the road from wehring - maybe when I get it running I need to take a fiel trip over there!

Ouch. My head hurts from that. :D SO I need a quantity of 2: 1 5/8" long 7/16" bolts with 20 threads per inch?

Can someone tell me the size and pitch of the two lower alternator bolts? Mine fell out and only the top adjuster bolt holds the alternator in now. Truck pitched its belts and I parked it at a friends place. Unfortunately it is kind of a far drive away to go recover it so I would like...

^^^ Well yeah but I kept shouting, "what?!?!?!" :mrgreen:

This is me going through the Mexican Phone Company drive through! Ummm Taco Bell. :mrgreen:

Do not start your Deuce after a good rain with your "other" cars within puking distance of the stack. Its not so bad that Ive given all my cars a case of the sooty black spots.... whats bad is Ive done it several times. :sad:

Kudos to Katahdin for the part numbers!