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Yes, you can feel it with hands at 6 and 12 when it is there. I always worry more about too tight instead of too loose. That is why I find the line and try to lock it down right on the line.

Every manufacturer seems to have a different method for this. I once found a 1957 Buick factory service manual that said to tighten the bearing nut to 40 ft pounds, spin the hub 19 times and then do some other form of magic before putting the lock nut on. I have developed my own technique for...

Glad you got it working and might have a spare soon.

You get to be the test pilot on that one. Loaded to the gills I would suggest putting the tires at the pressure the side of the tire says is max. Running empty that will have you bouncing off the ceiling and your teeth getting rattled out. The rear tires are going to be whatever psi you are...

That is the worst case scenario. Using a finger nail file to clean the contacts and a dental pick to bend the pins closer together might be all you need to do if this is even your problem.

You don’t need to just check the fuses for being good fuses. You need to verify power is getting to and from the fuse legs. The wire end pins inside the fuse panel melt into the plastic and no longer touch the fuses sometimes.

What is the Propel fuel? I have never heard of it.

When you turn the fan on any speed you get a bright red ALT 1 light and no air from the floor or the defroster, correct? I would suggest you remove the blower motor from the passenger side front fender/firewall area. A 1/4” drive socket set works best for me doing that. The screw at the outside...

Thank you for watching.

To answer the newest question in this old thread first. Yes, the statement about the timing lines just being an approximation or starting point is true. I don’t have a Tach n Time Machine so I can’t answer about that. I do have the Snap-On machine that works the same way. I even did a video...

Yes, that screw inside it what you adjust it with.

replacing the modulator on the side of the transmission with one that is adjustable works well when the IP mounted valve is bypassed. However, try adjusting the one you have. As in all the way forward, test drive. All the way back, test drive. Adjust to what you want. If no difference, then...

No. Leave the internals alone.

It is easier to just swap the top covers of the IP when going from 24 to 12 volts. The plugs will match up that way too.

This is the improved version of what I have. You can choose what is displayed in the two digital windows. Supposedly it has Bluetooth to talk with your phone. I don’t know if you can have stuff displayed there as well...

Look at Dakota Digital as well. It has been 7 years, but when I wanted to order one of their gauge clusters. I called them up and asked if I could have a 4,000 rpm tach instead of an 8,000 rpm tach since it was a 6.5 diesel. They did it for no extra charge. Supposedly their newer stuff is very...

It really depends on how the conversion was done and what is left. You need to get to know the -20 Technical manual for the CUCV trucks. Click the TM tab at the top of the page to download it. Appendix E or maybe F at the back of that manual has the wiring diagrams. That is what you will want to...

Thanks Rory. I forgot to mention the LMC relay. All of my trucks have that as well.

I have the Truck lites in my Cowdog truck as well. 4 years of trouble free super bright lights. If you can swing the price, they are worth it. I had the Sylvania Silver Star H4 lights in 4 trucks at the same time for a few years. O’Reilly’s had a 1 year free replacement on them. Between the 8...

As written above Right Stuff is what you use on a super clean surface. I normally go a step further and get them on with the bolts finger tight. Then I torque them to the really light spec after it has set up for hours or a day. The block of wood thing works great with the valve cover upside...