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You have two basic options for adding a turbo to a square body Chevy with a 6.2 or 6.5 engine. Banks or GM. here is a video about it and what is good about each:

Take the terminals off the discharged battery and charge it. Once charged, leave it disconnected and see if it will hold voltage. Once it does that hook it back up and then test hours or a day later.

Here is another video on the same theme:

The battery closest to the headlight on a stock CUCV is the battery that provides the 12 volts to run the basic Chevy stuff. Here is a video about it: I would suggest checking the voltage on both batteries separately. If they both have 12.6 or so volts then move onto the battery terminals and...

Fork lift loading to sell at auction has done that many time in the past.

I would suggest putting the switch on the ground wire of the starter relay. That way if the switch ever fails you can hot wire it and not worry about getting a jolt in the process.

You get to wire the 3 pin flasher plug into your harness. Along with the I think 7 pin plug at the blinker arm. It will be fun. You get to work with wire A or B or C and match them up to wire 20 or something like that. I have done it several times now.

Everything you wrote about alternative fuels is correct. So is the reply about filtering at least some way. Reality is that by the time you get a good pump. (Note that the air operated harbor freight 55 gallon drum one might work for about 30 gallons in my experience.). Source barrels, metal...

Do you have the solid state blinker wiring or the old mechanical Spartan unit wiring for blinkers in your new harness? As long as you have your old 3 pin plug for the box and the harness from your blinker arm, it can be made to work. I did that on my M715 which is exactly the same as the M35A2...

I’m not trying to push the Dakota Digital dash. But, it is what I have and know so that is what I will write about. Yes, the CUCV gauge cluster is 12 volt. Dakota Digital has their own oil psi and coolant temp sensors and wires. Voltage is taken from the supplied power. The tach which they...

Sorry, “Check your grounds” is kind of implied in every military truck and especially CUCV conversation. Pay real good attention to the ground cluster above the parking brake mount.

That generator to alternator kit works great. I have used it on several trucks. You also will find since your front harness is for a generator truck that it probably doesn’t have the front axle engaged light plug either. At least that has been my experience. Everything else will be close or just...

It reads like your voltage regulators are going If your belts are tight and everything else is good. Buy a pair of alternator rebuild kits is my suggestion.

I have a very good review of the Dakota Digital gauge cluster in my 12 volt Cowdog Suburban. I have Autometer gauges in my 12/24 volt 6.2 powered M715. I have a 12 volt gauge and a CUCV 24 volt gauge in the M715. So you can run all 12 volt gauges with the 12/24 system. Some custom wiring will...

You are now it seems down to what the Technical Manuals calls “Trace wiring.” I know you wrote that the wiring between the firewall and the rear sockets looked ok. But, somewhere some wires are touching.

Above the oil cooler lines is a little square headed set screw. It is blocking a pressurized oil gallery. That is probably the best place to put another gauge sender. I use it for an oil temperature sender on one of my trucks. You will look at the set screw and think a 1/4” socket extension...

Unplug the ground from the front battery before you pull the pictured plugs apart. You will find it is actually 3 different plugs going into the back of the fuse panel. Engine, front lights and rear lights. The 3 plugs kind of snap apart and back together. There will be a black goo inside the...

Here is a video I did about the ground tab on the fron blinker socket and replacement:

Basically, there are only 4 wires going to the back of the truck for service lights. There are the black out lights and the fuel sender wire as well. Have you considered the former military vehicle registration or antique registration? No inspection required. If you wait until January...

I agree. It isn’t so much the miles as the years on the soft parts.