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If your starter ends up being FUBAR after you find potential damage, reach out to me. I may have another here on the parts shelf that was tested as working that I can pass forward reasonably.
An MEP will eat up a big chunk of real estate there. Does your flatbed have boxes underneath at the corners? If not, maybe it'd be a better setup to build a box and slide a portable Generac diesel in there. Lighter weight for certain, smaller footprint, but same approx KW...
I think it depends on where you mount both. Would the genset be right up against the cab, cross ways in the bed? Where would the boom be mounted, rear corner?
If its happy at 10, let it run loaded for an hour or two there. Put some seafoam in it at the same time... Really make the unit work, and clean everything up. After that, test with additional load as needed. But remember not all load is equal.
The flywheel in the 803a is special for the application (and will not work with a 12v starter). I assume the flywheel was designed to a print of the LP crank, and it was later decided that no pin would be used... And this was somehow an easier option than changing the print? Who knows... There...
As knowledgeable as Gary is on the L-P products, I don't believe he is correct here. I am siding with Guy. Here are some photos of the unit I just took apart. The unit I broke down was factory tight, no sign of shear on the 'pin'. There is a hole on the flywheel, and it does appear to be filled...
Broke one apart today. See below. Sorry I don't have a thread gauge handy, but you should be able to pick up pitch and thread count off your remnants? Metric conversion on your time not mine ;)
That gauges represents percentage of power output, compared to rating of the machine. So if you were using 240V, and the rated output of the 803A is 52A @ 240V... your machine was producing 45% of 10KW, or 4500W. At least theoretically... clamp meter will tell you definitely, more than an analog...
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