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Well being the cylinder right next to the oil cooler, probably thermal stress did it in. Hours might tell the tale here. Any sign of leakage from above, that could have exacerbated metal fatigue?

Oh I'd say there was much to show for it ;)

One or more of these came up recently (within the last 6 months) at auction. The company behind it is no longer in business. If the price is right enough to consider the bottom part a throw away if need be, have fun with it. I've not seen one before that auction, and admittedly havent seen one...

Whats the torque figure on these bolts that give you issues? Thinking outside of the box... if you have the threads enough for one nut, find the strongest industrial Loctite (or similar) whose shear figures are well above what the bolt is stuck in there at, and use it on the single nut. I don't...

They make em pretty small these days https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/screw-extractors/21595?store=14470

Can you use one of those reverse spiral bolt taps to drill into the face, then use a socket wrench to extract?

I bet there would be interest over on the Smokstak forums, but commercially at large, probably not. They might be able to help you source docs and more info on them too. https://www.smokstak.com/forum/#smokstak%C2%AE-vintage-electrical-equipment.107

Have you confirmed you have the right isolators in place on the machine in question? 803 looks the same, but different molded number and different material characteristics.

One left. You just don't find these new in box, an ultimate backup part for 803 owners.

Ideas on how you would redesign it? All I can figure is to have to cut a clearance hole in the roof near the radiator cap, similar to the AMMPS. Not sure folks would want to do that?

All... now is your time to shine, and help the MEP community large with your input. I have a source that will produce the 802/803 radiators for me in all aluminum, which should take away the issues of rust through deterioration! 1.) Is there anything you would change about the current design...

This guy :rolleyes: :ROFLMAO: I believe I have made significant progress here, in where I see a major shortfall in the future on the parts side. For those interested, hold tight... might just have more up my sleeve.

Well if you tie to a Jerry can, it'll probably empty it into the machine before that is a concern (with a 9 gallon tank on an 803, you might actually empty the tank before the high level pump shutoff is hit.. Which will make the pump run on and on and on).

It bows out the sealing edge. There is a small vent/bleed hole on this item, to equalize pressure draw as well.

I've had (2) 802 run away on me... boy is that unpleasant.

I've got that stuff, plus I am sure the rest of the guys here have the rest of the items you need. We will keep an eye out for your wanted thread when the time is right.

Yeah just need to find a belt tensioner that fits into the spot where the alt was, to retain the factory belt (or any belt, if you end up needing shorter). Thats why I have a dual bank onboard charger... it keeps the batteries topped when not in use, and if my alternator were to fail during run...

I am sure if you can figure out exactly what's missing/deficient, folks here can get you squared away.

The flywheel on the generator has teeth for a 24V starter only (the 12V Lister Petter/Onan starter will engage differently). Past that, you would need to convert everything in the DC system over. Not feasible or cost effective. If the alternator is toast, you can leave it in place but unhooked...

This user can square you away with the whole package: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/new-mfc-scepter-fuel-cans.220452/ https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/new-mep-fuel-can-bung-adapters.220451/