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There is a reason why Lister Petter has gone bankrupt so many times (and is now nothing more than a brand name for a Chinese engine manufacturer).

They will run if they have power, and are not being overriden by a fault. If you followed Kurts writeup and you dont have 24VDC+ at the pump connector, you need to determine where its dropping out.

Do you have no fuel lights on?

You need to really inspect the radiator, if that much garbage was in the system. How do the hoses look? They have wire reinforcements on the inside... those might be in terrible shape.

Well you don't know if it didn't drain if you kept the (non see through) hoses in place while opening. If you did remove the hoses though, and nothing came out... yeah wouldn't hurt to flush it. At that point though, I would remove and clean it and flush the manifold and water jacket of the...

If its free floating in the TM document, it means its a discrete part. Its only being held in place right now by corrossion and ex-wife level stubbornness.

Thats one of the few benefits Ive found in the AMMPS sets... easy access to the front of the engine. The rest of the envelope is too tight, and way too annoying for this codger.

Not the first... definitely not the last. Do yourself a favor and look up rodent proofing in this forum, for the tips and tricks. Glad the set didnt burn up because of these chewers.

Yes 16 is just tension held in the block and this plate, by two O rings.

You will want to use needle nose to remove those little compression fittings where the rotten line mounts onto the metering pump barb... they may or may not be reuseable. If they aren't, you can source new or carefully use hose clamps.

You want to cut the caps, with the Xs on them. Use a pair of plier sand squeeze the ridge sides together, which will bulge the other sides. Take a dremel and zip these caps off. Do not cut into the barb inside the hose, or into the primary brass tube that the barbs are mounted... or you will be...

Just use hose clamps on both ends of the new fuel lines, quick and easy. Remove the rotten hose off the hard fuel line barb and the metering pump barb, and replace with line of your choice. I use gates safety stripe. The numbers and diameters are in one of these threads for certain.

The well will leak... Just a matter of time. Could be next month, could be six years from now, but it will.

It doesn't by that part number, but the seller is bundling them together... which is nice. Since you are already there, no sense in not refreshing all the gaskets/seals related to the pump.

https://dpequip.net/shop/military-vehicle-parts/751-40211-lister-petter-lpw-water-pump-gasket/ https://dpequip.net/shop/generator-parts/5330-01-358-5435-lister-petter-751-40450-lpw-water-pump-housing-to-cylinder-head-gasket-onan-186-6182/

When you say the 'backing plate', I assume you mean call out #13? As you can see there is a plate to manifold gasket. If it were me, I would replace the water pump gasket, the gasket for the plate to manifold, and both O rings on the sleeve into the block.

I see small zip ties on the inner grating.

https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/12172524?src=insideemail-GovPlanet-080924&utm_source=pet&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=GP+-+Saved+Search_1723262700433 I don't care about the equipment, but I would love to find the -24P on this unit, to find out the part number of this right angle adapter -...

Don't forget the crank pulley is a LH thread!