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They do have air brakes (air over hydraulic), but are disengaged unless air is applied (so opposite of what you would find on an OTR rig that if air pressure fails, the cans lock up). They can be kept in position by the locking hand brakes (and wheel chocks for safety sake).

I refuse to buy anything out of Butner. I've been burned with bad equipment more times than I wish to admit from that site. Good luck with getting this one going.

1200

Yeah, mistype on my part. Thanks

I have four in PA... looking to find homes for them in exchange for a little help. I am looking for some local assistance, either a shop recommendation, or if any of you are local, in removing some generators off of trailers. I have little use for the trailers, but do for the gensets. If anyone...

Well I got the pricing on if folks wanted to do a group buy (as I have overseen those in the past on MEP items) but I think the unit price is too much for most folks. It will be a problem in the future, but I'm not a bank. I'm still sitting on molded hose sets I had fabricated for these...

I don't know of an aftermarket drop in. Are you having issues with your radiator?

If you phase selection switch is set to 240V, then you will want the AM/VM gauge set to 3 o clock, which if you look at the markings on the face plate should denote 1PH, L1-L3 energized, with readings I believe off L3. L1 and L3 will be energized, with Neutral and G completing your wiring.

No it goes into a cavity. There is a bushing at the far end. Here is what the 803 rack looks like (blatantly stolen from an ebay listing):

I wonder if your fuel rack is bent slightly, causing it to hold position fully out (and the sound that you hear). That could account for the change in position of the block on the rack, that the rotating armature of the fuel stop lever needs to hit. Does the curved part of that shutoff look worn...

A piece at a time, then all at once :ROFLMAO: Good luck with the fix.

No doubt it has drawbacks, but its priced cheap. My vote is yellow spider box all day long, but funds don't always allow.

And to add, I always leave the very lowest RH edge bolt in place, so it acts like a swivel point for the side panel... once all others past that one are removed, you can just swing the panel up and out of the way, and back down when you are done.

Its the only way, for sanity's sake.

Cheapest option: https://ocoindustrial.com/genpro-gillette-cg03-01f-universal-military-electrical-distribution-spider-box-for-military-generators-120-240-volts-out/ Can either wire up a 30A receptacle at the machine, or wire a 30A plug out from, the lugs, and then you can directly power a home...

And its amazing what a very small but pressurized leak can do...

Don't rebuy the braided OEM line. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000 That's what I use when I do return repairs. It takes a little oil on each end to help slide the components together (since the OEM garbage line is 3.5MM, and...

This. If you have voltage, but no noise... Toss it. Do you have the cube Facet, or the cylindrical Airtex style? The latter is the updated design, with slightly different hose routing (and accessories).

I believe the contents are the same, but the wrap count around the CT is different.

Test it. Do you have 24V at both side terminals when its pulled out, and only at one side when pushed in?