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Looks awesome. I assume you arent able to title growlers for road use correct?

-Muffler -clapper on top of exhaust -keyed battery disconnect -lockable door handles -Spin on filters oil, fuel, & add a coolant one -Replace the breather vents on axles, trans & xfer case. -magnetic drain plugs on axles, trans & xfer case. -ss braided brake hoses -automatic air tank drain on...

This is a common problem. I ended up getting a replacement flame heater injector nozzle when mine started leaking. It ended up being a newer design (had a hex body). After replacing it still didnt work (but didnt drip anymore either). I ended up just pulling the whole system off as it i didnt...

I'm not making them any longer and I don't know that anyone else ever did. If you look at post 44, it has a drawing of the design I was making/selling and anyone has my blessing to copy, make, and start selling them again if they have the means.

That diagram is a bit misleading. There is a different master cylinder bracket that isnt listed on it so you can assume that they meant the whole assembly. The a3 trucks have a similar mc bracket to the airforce trucks but not identical (af trucks have a winch lever capstan and provisions for...

Awesome updates!

(If you are talking the metal lines from the hydraulic head to the injectors) I remember one member replaced his injector lines with NOS parts in the last few years and discovered a couple of them were plugged. I can’t remember who it was but he put a post up about it so try searching.

I have the original Bendix drawings for the Master Cylinders from the A2 dual circuit and A3 trucks, they call out EPDM rubber seals. Perhaps some of the newer replacement units have silicone? I know you can get Blue EPDM O-rings though.

MudMarine is right. If you have a plastic MC reservoir then it will have the 2 caps, but you can only see one of them through the cab's floor access door. Filling fluid from the one cap will fill both sides of the reservoir. The reservoir has an internal baffle that splits it in 2, but the...

It’s all in post 22 & 23 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3229-Deuce-Power-Bleeder-R4x4-Style&p=1512754&viewfull=1#post1512754

you could probably get it slightly balanced that way but the stiction of the grease and tightened bearings would probably prevent it from moving very freely. It would certainly be a simple thing to try. Your tire pressure might be too high if it’s bouncing also. I cant remember what I had for...

Honestly I’m not sure if the priority valve will solve your current issue, in fact I suspect it won’t, but figured I’d mention it anyway. I’d recommend pm’ing someone like gringeltaube or rustystud.

You probably know this from the TM diagrams, but the dual circuit trucks have a priority valve on the drivers side frame rail (Bendix 278614 DC4). Both airpacks have an air line going to the priority valve and from it a single airline goes to the gladhand. Check out these, maybe it will help...

Download this TM for the m35a3: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-386-24P.pdf I think most of what you need would be between pages 236-256, although it could still be unclear. If so let me know and I'll try to get some pictures under my truck for you. I cant remember off hand...

Yeah, hopefully it is just some air lines mixed up, it does matter. Spend some time looking at the tms and pics to make sure you have it right.

Was the air pack new, nos, rebuilt, used?

interesting. I wonder how the pedal linkage works for this, or what it looks like.

There are several programs out there that should be free and can open it. The only one I’ve ever played with is edrawings. You can download a free copy of that and open the model saved as an edrawing. You can pull dimensions off of that.

On my 109 the sheet metal floor is stitch welded to each and every crossmember in addition to the sides. I ended up keeping my sheet metal floor and painted it with POR15

I like the caterpillar disconnect switch, do you know what one you used?