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Yes, no change if I try to move the shifter while starting.
It's leading me to believe the PCB is bad but seems odd that everything else that runs through it is working ok. the nss seems tro be working ok along with the starter switch.
I have an M998 that ran fine one day, the next it wouldn't even crank. I can start it with one of those starter jumper tools.
Anyway, working through the startability test and I'm to the point on page 388 it asks me to test continuity from the engine connector harness socket "I" to the 74A...
Yeah, I called and talked to him yesterday. The most recent FB post I found has them at $2400 + shipping but I did see the $2k somewhere also. I just can't seem to find it again. He is working me up a quote today.
I called and talked to Chris. He did say these doors were molded and they were made to fit a hard top. He said with a soft top, there will be a gap at the c-pillar but it's easy to make a filler for. I think you kinda see that in the video I attached from youtube.
He did say they were working...
I called and talked to the guy yesterday and though it still does sound a little scammy, I've pulled enough info together to figure out that the guy he works with is from this business, North Georgia Corvette and Muscle. The guys name is Chris Gowin and his FB page seems more legit. (1)...
Here is what the guy replied with last night. He gave me a phone number to call and it matches the one from CL.
" Well, Jason, I am a 74-year-old Vet with a Flip phone! LOL, I bought 34 Humvee and have closed my shop no website I have been in the business for about 15 years know all the major...
This is what he said so far: "I think you will find that the cheapest thing you did is buy a humvee. I have a set here on an M1114 we just finished number 34 so you could see a set in person. I go to Atlanta twice a year and bring back the set. We just got back from Atlanta on the 7th with 5...
I have 3 of these units that I use to heat a big barn and sometimes 1 for my garage. When they work, they work awesome but it seems like I'm always having to take them apart and work on them. I don't use them that often. Does anyone else have the same issue or does yours just work all the time...
I asked him if I could just pick them up and I haven't heard back yet. I am pretty sure I came across the same guy on Craigslist a while ago. His ad makes it sound like he either makes these or buys them somewhere. Sounds like they are ready to paint.
I was hoping someone on here had already...
There is a guy on FB selling a set of 4 x-doors from Sandusky, OH for $2500. The price seems pretty reasonable, comes with locking doors, windows, gaskets and strikers. Anyone bought these?
I have a M998 with soft doors. The windows are getting where you can't see out of them real well and a couple of them are having zipper issues. Those of you who went from soft to hard doors, is it worth the money? Are the hard doors any quieter? What does an x-door with the window that goes up...
Ok, that makes sense then. Sounds like sometime since you bought yours and I bought mine, they added the speed sensor to the design. My TCU uses the speed sensor for shifting along with info from the RPM sensor and TPS and a bunch of other settings.
I wonder how yours is different than mine then? I don't have any issues with the RPM signal, I'm getting that off the CPS and it reads good. Your output speed shaft sensor is on your transfer case?
Well, one more update as I found out that in the event you need to use low lock, you are pretty much out of luck without manually shifting from 1st to 2nd and changing the calibration in the app.
It appears that the SEN-01-1 pulse generator doesn't generate a signal until you reach about 9mph...
Not sure. I'll try to take a look this weekend and see if I can tell but from what I can remember, there is a small flange that goes around the half shaft that might block being able to see anything there.
The shaft looked good. I did not notice a dual lip on the seal I took out but I don't...
Hello all,
One of my input seals on my M998 geared hub started leaking a few weeks ago. I got new seals and shim gaskets and worked on it this past weekend. Unless I am missing it somewhere in the TM, I can't find anything that states how far the seal should be pressed in. My other one was...
I thought I would update this thread now that I have been through this just in case it helps anyone in the future. Here are some notes.
I had to make several phone calls to TCI to try to figure out how to make this work. I was disappointed in the level of support I got. First off, as I...
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