Search results

On the tool box section of quote at top, youll see the B I U font buttons, keep going to the right until you see the little window icon, with black dots in the corners, too the left of the quote icon. Click that and then upload from file. It will add in when you post.

I've used AL's liner on a few projects, its not bad, like most stuff, it is the prep and application that equals results. A friend has used Lizard Skin, he has an article on gear-report.com about it. I used Al's on the bed section of my 998. I have also used quite a bit of FatMat with good...

Flashoffroad has several articles on this exact process. Check them out. I vaguely recall the yoke deal on one article, mentioned using a beam torque wrench to note the break point on torque when removing the yoke to give you the torque yield for reapplying the correct yoke. Not a click type...

ARMY too. My rig has spent the whole career in Army, it has them as well.

Have you removed the bolt holding the wheel end to the hub? Remove wheel, outside of hub is a large nut, just above the stud flange. Remove it. Behind that is another bolt that attaches the shaft to the hub. Its recessed into hub.

There are a multitude out there reasonably cheap. Just get one that will cover the amps and watts you need. Some folks add a second 12 volt alternator on as well. If you run off one battery keep it mind it WILL cause an imbalance eventually. Depends on your usage really.

I had no wire anywhere on my hubs/drums etc. I just finished bearings, seals, brake cylinders, lines etc. Should I be worried?

I used a 1"x8ft piece of galvanized pipe with one threaded end having a joint piece threaded on. Its just small enough to sneak past the gears and through to the other side. It also gives a bit more surface contact for hammering out the seal retainer. Ill snap a pic when I get home. But any...

I ordered mine on Amazon. I just checked, they are out of stock right now. ANNT 27w flood, 12/24v. These came with mounts and good length of wiring. They are quite a few options on there.

Ask and ye shall receive.

Finished up my reverse lights. Work great. Getting ready to install the helmet top in next week or so as well.

What are you trying to say? lol

Their prices for new are pretty reasonable to me. I ordered new handles from them. OEM products.

I had good results with simple green and a broom. Laid them out, presoaked with water, sprayed the simple green on, scrubbed with a regular broom and rinsed. Plus the simple green isn't too harsh on the ground. I use a broom, being too tall to be hunched over scrubbing.

I have tried AMtech, they will not respond to any messages.

If anyone has pics or part numbers for the helmet top windshield edge clamping hardware and the tool box handles please post them or send me a message. I only have one handle on the back door and nothing on the edge of the windshield section of top, only what appears to be screw holes. Thanks.

Started my rebuild last night. Have it tore down completely. The canister doesn't look bad at all, but the other side was full of rusty crud. I'm going to order the rebuild kit off fleabay. I just rebuilt the master cylinder, so I hope this all that's left to fix. Everything else is completely...

The vent is capped off down below and the reservoir has a vented cap, I believe I understood it that way anyways.

Bringing up this old thread rather than making a new one. Im having similar issues. All new brake cylinders, axle hard lines, rubber hoses, rebuilt the master cylinder. Got master bled, got airpack bled, bled lines. Pedal is really squishy. I hooked up pressure bleeder and fluid sprays out of...

Hmmwv's are as safe as many vehicles produced during most of the production run. Mine is an 87. I would put it up against any 87 wrangler, or my 94 wrangler for that matter. How about a Sunbeam or a Yugo. The big deal is AMG not wanting to worry about someone filing suit on them for...