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I'm with Juan, If you flush and clean. Then replace with good quality coolant and distilled water every couple years, you should be good. Yes some times casting sand lingers around in the block. But that usually ends up laying at the bottom of the rad.

Dex VI is a thinner vis than IV. This could make your torque converter slip a little more. More so if the truck is loaded or towing something. This could result in higher tranny temps, worse fuel mileage and shorter tranny life. Oh and I was backward thinking on the vac valve adjustment...

The valve on the IP might be out of adjustment. You can lossen the two bolts holding it on and rotate it forward tward the front bumper or backward tward the cab to adjust shift points. Rotate forward tward the front bumper to shift sooner. Try adjusting it before you buy a new one.

Thanks for the replies.

Will a medium tow bar with 3/4 inch feet work to flat tow a M998? Will the feet clear the bumper?

I would be more worried about the old paper media flaking and coming apart. Then plugging a oil passage and killing a engine. This has happened to me. Even If I take a NOS engine out of the can it gets new filters. Filters are cheeper then engines.

Do you have a 3 speed or 4 speed tranny?

If you wire your radio straight to the battery you might consider going to the rear battery. You will still have 12V across that battery. From it's neg to pos ONLY. This way your second Alternator can power your radio and the first alternator can run the truck. Any lights. horn, heater etc will...

Sounds like dribbling injectors. Or the "pop" pressure is too low. Fuel is puddling on the piston. Then burning as the piston comes up on the compression stroke. This slams the rod into the crank when the crank is trying to push the piston up.

Do they shake enough that you think they might crack the fender?

I remember back in the 90's when GM fought the stagnet coolant/rear cylinder problem. First they updated the water pump to 130GPM from 90GPM. Then went to a dual thermostat set up to remove the restriction there. When that didn't work they opened up the piston clearance for #7 cylinder to stop...

Jake , There are those made for H1's they swing out with the spare tire. They hold up to 4 cans. That is my plan eventually.

Thanks for the replies. I want to add two cans. I am sticking with a 2 man and was thinking of mounting them on the seat back for the rear passenger side. It will be a while before I can ad a airlift bumper and put them back there.

Where you have your jerry cans mounted? Any pics? Thanks

The surging could be as simple as old bad fuel. There is a drain on the fuel tank. Let it sit overnight on a level surface so any water in the fuel will have time to settle to the bottom of the tank. Drain off some fuel to see if there is any water in it. A glass mason jar works well so you can...

I listed the parts I won't be using in the classifieds.

You have the same VDO gauges I have. That was a good run. We need to have our own CUCV drag races now.

Thanks Man but I already have a new one from a older CUCV project that didn't get used. The 6.2 in there now has a cracked flywheel so I figured somebody has been doing "netural drops" with it. I've seen guys rev them up in netural then drop it into drive to try to spin the tires. It flattens...

I got the tranny off and am about to get it up on the stand. I'll probably post in the classifieds the stuff I won't be using. I was surprised to see all the balance drilling on the flexplate/flywheel. Hopefully it will be a smooth runner.

Yea if he has it in the oil cooler he will be adding heat. Not taking it away. Unless you are using the brakes a lot off road or down the side of a mountain for miles you won't need a cooler. The engine's oil cooler will preheat the fluid. The return heater hose will be dumping hot water right...