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I guess my motor mounts were sagging. I couldn't get the pan to clear. That truck was lifted so I didn't have a axle clearance problem. I hope his luck changes. It's fighting him every step of the way.
Its too big to fit through the oil drain hole. To lift the engine, Get a block of wood and a bottle jack. Place the wood under the pulley/balancer. Then jack the engine up there. Drop the pan first. Then push the engine up just enough to clear the pan. And don't forget to remove the fan shroud.
Do you know what end you have? Could the broke piece still be in the bore aginist the camshaft? If so, then slowly rotate the crankshaft by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Then see if the cam lobe will push it out of the bore. If not, then if I was in your shoes I would pull...
Yes that it the correct rod. Look at your broken one. Is it machine ground/polished on each end? Or do you have a broken jagged end? The reason I ask is normally the fuel pump arm bend/breaks before the rod. Post a Pic? If it is polished on both ends it's not broke. When you reinstall it or the...
Drock, You are correct. The 998's 3 speed is a turbo 400. If this was a problem every time the Marines hit the beach from landing craft the would be loosing trannys to salt water. That would have been corrected in short order if true. It used the same TC, pump, and forward seal as the turbo 400...
I have not failed. Both my M1028 and my M35A2C with a original fording kit have preformed flawsly in this mess. And they have also in TS Allision, Hurricane Ike, among other floods. As a volunteer fire fighter I am tasked with helping others. That I have done. I have prepaired my 1028 and M35...
I know I will get flamed for this but NEVER leave a multi fuel parked for a long time with the engine stop pulled. The shaft WILL rust and stick. I know I know the procedure said to park it that way. That's just incase someone hit it with another M35 and moved it enough to push start it. But...
I have had plastic tank ones not in MV/s do the same to me over the years. They were non repairable. I went with a all aluminum oversized in my 1028 because I tow my tractor with it. The stock one couldn't handle the increased fuel rate and heavy loads. If it ever leaks in the boonies I guess...
You may want to swap to a 180 tsat also. The original banks kit came with a 180 tsat. The fan is likely working right. If your driving enough air should be coming across to keep the fan in free wheel. Once you stop it gets hot enough to come on.
They are torque to yeld bolts. If you try the will streach and put you back into the same boat. Looks like it's time to pull the heads. Did you overheat it? If so the gasket is bad or it's cracked.
QUOTE:Wow Ken, you've been on here a long time. You joined SS even before the internet existed :mrgreen:
Yea That was done as a joke by Mike. He used to be a mod here. It's been so long I cant even remember what the joke was about. Al Gore just thinks it was him who invented the internet...
If you have a multi meter, ohm it to the 24V buss above the heater blower motor to see if that is where it ends up. Look at the pos side off batt2. Is there a extra wire there too???????
RED wire is the 24V power lead. Red with white stripe is 12V lead. It goes to ground on the alt. The small term is not used on the passenger side alt. It is for the tach on the STE-ICE machine.
I have seen that oil fill cap on many CUCV's over the years. Some have the breather style though. GOOD JOB on the intake! Hope it runs as good as it looks. Thanks about the lathe, I also have a mill and other machine tools. They really help when I get myself in a pickle! I like making my own...
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