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That is the gear reduction starter.

That is a drain hole and should be there. Typically if dripping from there, it would be the rear main seal is leaking. This hole allows it to drip out so you don't fill the area the cover is, full with oil. Typically rear mains will leak while the engine is running and once off it will stop...

Agree, big enough hammer anything will fit. LOL I am going an easier way with mine. Gen VI 454 big block. Since it was a factory option, it should fit without any issues.

You actually want something there to allow the fork to pivot as the rod moves in and out. Without the wedge or something, that nut will eventually wear into the arm and possibly bind. What I did on another project trans swap was to take a piece of solid round rod (big enough to allow the rod...

One thing I read about the Duramax swaps is they are a very wide engine. This can cause problems getting them to fit in some applications.

If you are converted to 12v and the starter actually turns over and started the engine, you have a 12v starter. A 24v one won't even engage at 12v. Fuel gauges is likely a wiring (i.e. bad grounds, loose connections) or a sending unit problem.

Wanted to close this problem out. I got the new solenoid in (bought a German made one versus China). Took me two times to get the cover installed without anything binding up. Once I did, I checked the solenoid was clicking as it should be and it was. Happy with that, I started the process to...

Yeah, that was my next thought, if the TO bearing is not the issue, is the fork wrong for the application. Transmission swaps are always fun. LOL

Sounds like you have a short throw out bearing and you need a long one. I ran into this problem on another build I did.

The fuse labeled #17. That was blown and I had no power to the fuel cutoff solenoid. I replaced that fuse and I had power to the solenoid.

Spent more time yesterday troubleshooting why the M1010 won't start. Pulled the glow plugs so it can crank easily. Checked and cleaned the return valve so I know it is working. Used about 3-4psi of air pressure on the return line at the pump to the tank. At first it seemed plugged. After a...

That's a thought. Never heard much about solenoid going bad by not having enough travel. Seems like a work or don't work deal.

Hi all, Been reading a bunch of threads, watching video and general searching. Little confused why I cannot get my M1010 to start. Here is what happened. Last weekend I was driving fine, about 40mph. All of a sudden I feel it loosing power so I get over to the side of the road as I was...

I am running this one from AutoCoolGuy. https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/auto-cool-nb-50-no-buzz-50-amps Scroll to the bottom of the page to see this unit. His website kind of sucks. LOL He has many different one based on how much current your fans are going to draw. For the fan I...

I think I might be running into the same problem. I am getting fuel out the filter bleed port (after replacing the filter). I cracked all of the injectors and I am getting fuel from all of them. Cranks fine but will not start. It's either the lift pump or injector pump.

That I have no idea. Never have opened one up before. I am sure there are pics online. Maybe search CUCV DB2 fuel solenoid

CUCV ones are 12v, just like the civilian models. HUMMVE ones are 24v. Having just worked on my injector pump solenoid wiring this past weekend, I know for sure it is 12v.

Just curious, since you mentioned cracked head because of overheating, from things I have read, it seems the rear part of the block runs hot because of lack of coolant flow, due to the design of the block. I think I read GM fixed this in later 6.5L blocks. Because I wanted to try to eliminate...

My question would be, are you having overheating problems now? I switch over to the HMMWV crossover, not because there was anything wrong with the original one but between running the Paradox by Design cooling kit and needing an extra port for my water temp gauge, it made things easy/cleaner...

Nice work!