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Sounds like you have a dead cylinder. When the truck is idling, loosen the fittings for the injector line at each injector one at a time. If that cylinder is firing the idle speed will change and the engine will run rough. Tighten the line back up and go to the next cylinder until you find the...
it sounds like your unloader valve is bleeding back. In other words, when you reach pressure it unloads the compressor and closes off the port in the valve that goes to the air tanks or system. The pressure is bleeding back through this valve and out the relief port. This is hy your compressor...
Hey dittle,
Don't go comparin him to Frodobaggins (Troll).......that's just not right.....after all....Frodo's truck is still stuck and all........so come on...don't kick a troll when he's down.....I'm tellin ya.....SOME MEMBERS..............:roll:
Phil,
It started out at $11,500 because "SOME MEMBERS" told me it was a "SPECIAL GL REVERSE AUCTION".....:roll: So I figured I'd be the first o bid........:oops: NOW.....I gotta come up with $11,500 plus fees for a truck that is not even close to meaua..........I'm tellin ya......ya can't trust...
The Bendix number is an obsolete number according to Bendix. The Bendix number for the A3 master cylinder is still a good number according to the Bendix website but there are no specs available. You would have to contacrt Bendix about it I would guess. The only difference is that the A3 is a...
That is actually the advance housing for the injection pump. There is a centrifugal weight assembly in there. Perhaps one of the weights decided to try and leave the housing. I would replace the advance assembly and see if the engine runs. Also, before you go any further see if you can turn the...
if you look in TM9-2910-226-34 in section 3-40 there is an exploded view of the throttle linkage. That idle stop cam assembly is secured to the throttle shaft with a bolt that pinches the stop assembly onto the splined throttle shaft. There is also a snap ring in front of the cam assembly...
That's what you get for sticking your nose where it doesn't belong........:doh:
Sorry Carnac, couldn't resist it.....I hope you get better soon.......and rant and ramble on........
Read this cover to cover
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=57
It tells you how to diagnose your fuel system and fix it.
I've also been doing research on this. What I have found is if you take the P/N for the master from the SMARPI manual and go to WBParts.com it will come back with a 2 3/4" bore in the specs. I don't think this is right as all the M/C's similar in shape to what it shows in the SMARPI are maximum...
As dogkiller stated wwith the test light. But I would first go to the alternators and remove the + wires from them. I'll bet you have a bad diode in one.
Worst part about it is they are still displaying the deuces that were supposed to be up for auction this week on that darn GL add on the left of the steel soldiers website page.......its torture :cry:
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