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If it was running away on its own oil you wouldn't be able to shut it off without cutting off the air supply

Heat Gun

10,000 miles @8 mpg= 1,250 gallons. Figure you bring 5 drums of veggie @ 50 gals per drum (just to make it easy on the math) that means you have to buy 1,000 gallons of diesel....lets say at $2.60 a gallon (conservative) that would be........$2,600 dollars in fuel. Now....10,000 miles in 30 days...

Also, I found this AB manual on a website. It has the pump used on the LD engine. On page 70 there is a troubleshooting section. It lests fuel dilution as o-rings on Injection pump, or the seal on the transfer pump. Check it out............ OOOPS!!!!:oops: Sorry but file is too big to post. If a...

Check the seal on the fuel supply pump on the side of the injection pump. It could leak there because that pump is a gear pump that is driven off the shaft that has the cam on it for the injection pump. I don't know if the engine will run eithout this pump. If you are going to bypass the pump...

There are some v6-53 Detroits up for auction on GSA. In case you want more power....

Loosen each injector line as it is idling and see if you get a double knocking sound out of the cylinder. If so then that is probably the cylinder with the rod knock. Personally, I really don't think you have a rod knock. It sounds like you're overfueling.

If it has a diaphragm on the side it is vacuum advance. chances are due to the age it probably isn't. Also, is that Zenith carb the right cabr for that engine?? It could be the carb is jetted wrong and is basically running out of fuel or leaning out once it gets to 2000 rpm. WOW, I just realized...

Try hooking up your timing light and rev the engine. See if the timing advances. If not and the distributor has a vacuum advnce on it use a vacuum pump and apply vacuum to it at idle just to see if the diaphragm is good. Also the distributor most likely has a centrifugal advance. These are...

My back hurts.........

Charge your batteries up and then start the truck to verify the alternator is working. If so, shut it down and disconnect the 24 + cable and put a test light in series between the post and the cable end (preferably a 24 volt test light). If the light lights even dimly then you have a draw on the...

Wow!!!!!! Soundslike a bad case of "M35 Envy"!!!!!:drool::drool:

ahhhhhh..... Now I understand...... Youse guys sure do talk funny sometimes :wink:

What's a "ya'll"??????

Do you have something in the back of that truck??? It looks like its squatting in the pics.....or maybe an optical illusion......

Not only that but looking at the pic it looks like some of the lugs might be loose.......

Use a pair of Dikes (wire cutters). Our machines only use the type of key that you have. You grab it with the dikes and pry the dike jaws against the shaft. They always cone out that way.

No it won't. either pull #1 wire off and jury rig an old spark plug wire with paper clips in ends or sometimes the shielding will slide back up wire if you take the nut loose at either plug or distributor end.

pics??????

Sped, Did you check your vent line on your trans?? As for it being at the proper level before you started out......and then be approximately a quart over when you stopped after having problems....maybe it was the wrong oil they put in. One thing I would like to see you do is check the level...