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I would think that 3-4' is a pretty nominal run, so you may be able to just run the stock 1.25" NPT up (or a lighter weight tubing). You may or may not elect to install a piece of flexible exhaust tubing in the run to isolate vibration.

Almost everything pertinent to the 803, is for the 802 as well. They are almost identical machines past cylinder count and genhead rating. The 802 is a great platform for a large group of homeowners (myself included). Best things I can tell you: Auctions don't tell the whole truth Private...

They are happy with just regular old Prestone green too.

If it makes rated power, its working just fine. You may just have a slightly weaker governor tension spring. You could fiddle with the droop adjustment too, but I wouldn't. I'd just get the load to where you plan on running it and compensate as needed. They aren't race cars.

or this guy :LOL: https://newlondon.craigslist.org/for/d/east-haddam-fermont-mep-831a-3kw/7716792290.html

How about this idiot...

I feel like I saw that machine/slab/trench setup in a thread here not too long ago. I assume he is among the forum members now.

I've found the Gates replacement line to be more than sufficient in all units I've sold. I just finished doing all lines on an 802 headed to a chap in Maine, might as well do mine with the same materials while I still have it all out.

Well its been windy as hell here tonight, lights went out 20 minutes ago. Just over 1200 people in the state without power... all in my town. 802 fired over like a champ..... return lines leaking right at the end of the rigid line :cautious:. My machine only has 60 or so original hours on it...

Edit... I thought you were talking about an 803, sorry. Nevermind.

I don't recall the #s I've used in these machines offhand, but if you got those SKUs from this forum... they will work as intended without any modification required.

I'm not familiar with this machine, but I am assuming its mechanically governed like the smaller sets (not electronically governed). If that assumption is true, no controls play part in RPM shift.

Is it the hertz gauge that's moving around, or is the sound of the engine actually changing rpm (and thus changing what the gauge displays)? An important distinction.

Well one in that folder is a -12.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-you-need-to-work-on-the-mep-005a.154446/

My wife's fighting with me to get reading glasses for the small stuff. I told her I didn't see the need. :ROFLMAO: She wasn't as amused as I was.

As Ray said, you need to nail down what RPM you are currently running at (as its directly proportional to hertz). Kill A Watts are a great cheap tool for your arsenal.. so is a digital multimeter with the more extended features. If you find you are at or near the right RPM, it is easily...

Alternate source for the last one Ray called out. https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5559/SP-1890-60Hertz-Control-Converter-MEP-Electric-Generator

I assume the baby MEP has NPT threads like its bigger brothers, so just pull the plug and head over to a hardware or plumbing supply shop and match up with some fittings. Seems the 831 doesnt have a proper -24P for the machine (I saw one for the engine in the TM section here, but not for the...