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It should not have jelled on 24 oz. mixed in prior to the problem. Sounds like fuel problem. Get some Power Service 911 and fill a new filter with it and put it on. Prime it and try that. May have to charge batteries before it will start.

What additive did you gel on last year? Were you using bio diesel? How much kerosene did you add to a tank?

What kind of additive and the amount before it gelled? It takes a double dose of some additives when it approaches zero and below. Make sure to not use bio diesel. It attracts moisture. If kerosene or #1 diesel is available it is better for extreme cold. Truckers use to use 10% gas added to 90%...

All the small block chevy gas engines that I have worked on had smooth studs that screwed into water pump hub and then the pulley slipped on over them, then the fan clutch followed by a lock washer and nut. Real easy to assemble. Some of the big blocks had a longer stud bolt with lock washer...

It really is this simple!

Welcome from Western Oklahoma (similar to Canada today)! Nice looking truck!

Sounds like you are getting close to the problem.

He said old sensor was clicking off and on too.

If you disconnect the plug from the sensor does the wait light come on and stay on. Sounds like a loose wire or connection somewhere .

Since both coolant sensors are clicking either they are both bad or I suspect you have a problem with the plug to the sensor or the wiring itself. Do the sensors have resistance on a volt meter when cold?

What brand of glow plugs and temp switch on rear driver side temp sender and glow plug relay did you use? You have changed a lot of parts at once making it a little harder to diagnose. I suspect one of the new parts is defective or not the right one or a wire is in the wrong place or moving...

Try putting in a healthy dose of Power Service , Stanadyne, or any other flavor of diesel additive and see how it sounds.

You can install a helicoil in a damaged hole and it is better than new. Just do not go any deeper with the drill than the hole is already. This can be done without removing the head.

When buying one of these get the larger heavy duty version! Works a lot better on the stubborn break downs!

One of the GM part numbers is 1105500. Another number is 10459234. Original numbers for both sides.

All of the cucv's are made from 1984 parts. The military wanted them all the same. The year they were made is the only difference.

Actually changing the brushes and bushings and a few other items just to get a starter barely working is a "rebuilt" starter. It often has a few days warranty or none. It often works a while then fails. You might get a good one occasionally. A remanufactured starter is completely disassembled...

Frank there is a little envelope to the right of your user name in upper right hand corner of page. Click on envelope then click on show all conversations. Hope you find your address.

I would run some Seafoam added to the diesel thru it and see if it smooths out first. Seafoam or Power Service will clean out a lot of injectors.

Are you certain you have installed the correct diesel lift pump?