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I think they are a nice addition

Have you flipped the AC Interrupt Switch to closed on the gauge panel? Thats how you tell the machine to send power to the lugs. If you have, does the bulb above the switch light up?

While you are undertaking this troubleshooting, its a great time to add a manual oil pressure gauge to your machine, right at that T. Its been documented here on SS. I don't recall the thread, but I added one to my personal machine a number of years ago and its an excellent backup for not that...

Glad to see its making power with those new parts. Hopefully a job you never have to repeat!

Your other responses were removed my moderators, because selling in the forums goes against the rules here. If they keep seeing you do it, they will just keep removing your posts or worse. FYI.

but seriously I think its an RFID label, maybe for inventory purposes.

Not that high tech, but I always liked that style gauge.

Firing the Parts cannon can fix problems... but not always. You could always just download TM 9-6115-641-24 if you don't have it yet, and reference PDF Page 113 to know for certain (for no money out of pocket):

Entirely possible as the arc would have been on the DC circuit, which this gauge also is. There are testing methods in the TMs for the gauges to confirm if they are good or not.

If it cranks over strong by the dead crank, thats a good start. You do need those relays and switches. If you really just want to hear the engine run, it is possible if you really need to before buying up the right parts. You can use the dead crank to turn it over, and manually pull on the fuel...

Lookin good!

I would say thats a matter of perspective, best discussed over some strong barley water.

Thats a great price, Thanks

Where did you find the bearing at for a good price, if you don't mind sharing the source?

Thats the nice thing about new in box versus used takeout... the factory documents!

The cutout under the engine is about 6" x 6"... a rodent superhighway into the machine. Especially under the conditions you have it installed.

I can't seem to find a breakthrough amperage rating on the Eaton OEM one, but the alternate Ive bought before (BK/ABC-30-R) shows an interrupt rating of only 200A... so I think that McMaster fuse might not blow when you want.

I use 1/4" hardware cloth and self tapping sheet metal screws for the large cutout under the engine. Can do the same over the side vent inlets if you want for extra coverage (mice are assholes). For the battery drain holes they are covered when the batteries are in place, but using some self...

Did not know that. Thanks for the info.