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Yeah its not going to do anything with those little plastic boxes missing. The leftmost unit is a switch, the rest are all identical relays. Hopefully you bought the right units.

I think you need your own thread on this, is if doesn't already exist. Anyone can test almost anything in these machines if they have three things: 1.) Appropriate Technical Manual 2.) A handheld multimeter 3.) Eyes, Ears, and Hands Even the third may be optional, but helpful. For the 803A, I...

Do you have the color coded 10kw wiring diagram TM? Test along the starting circuit until you find the issue. Have you tested the cranking relay?

Submerge the pumps in a can of carb cleaner for a few days, and they articulate by hand and clean with compressed air. You may find the problem has resolved itself.

I believe TB4 is on the sheet metal wall behind the S8 phase selection switch. You will need to remove the operator control cube roof to get to it. You should buy a couple of cans of a high quality deoxidizing spray to aid you in getting this machine going. The S1 may not be bad... might be...

The wire numbers should be printed in red ink every couple inches, on every wire in the machine. You may need to clip free a zip tie to see what I mean.

Yes to 1/4" primary hose, yes to dremeling off and replacing with a hose clamp. Yes to doing the returns at the same time. Spray paint probably has no obvious meaning tied to the machine.

If compressed air isn't enough, with how thick tank sludge can be taking it out is really the best option. You can disconnect the fuel line from it to the pump and inspect that first, before having to take the pickup out (in case the blockage is there).

If you were impatient you could always make a quick jumper cable with alligator clips to jump the two pins together to see if it fires. I wouldn't... but you could.

Does it spin by the dead crank switch?

No problem. Can't even ship the parts to you, for what Mouser lists them for. Hopefully you are operational soon.

As I told the OP by private message, I actually sold this machine to the current owner in TX. It was completely gone through, load banked, tested, and confirmed as fully operational. The quad fuse you see came that way from reset (versus the panel mount most are familiar with). I have seen this...

Well without any machine NSN or TM numbers to reference, just kind of shooting in the dark. Here is a universal pump you may be able to adapt: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/airtex,E8131,fuel+pump,6256

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/504-BK-HKP-R https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/504-BK-ABC-30-R

I have some black versions of it in stock new, you would just need to solder new wires to it (it has tabs, just like the OEM). If you were interested.

So the pump was inverted, or someone rerouted the fuel lines? One is a hard line, so thats not the easiest to accomplish. At least it was figured out.

I don't see a keyway on the ID of that pulley, and the Leece Neville unit is keyed. FWIW

Full dimensional details are here: https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/3020-01-382-8782.html

Unfortunately it seems the one I thought I had I no longer do. Only pulleys that seem to be in stock at the moment are crank pulleys with the reverse rotation bolts. I even checked my rebuilt alternators boxed on the shelf, thinking I maybe sent it out... Nada. I will keep looking, and if I...

I may have one, I need to look.