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I've been considering building some of these but making them "plug and play" is pricy in its self due to the parts required. A 24-12V DC/DC transformer in a high enough amperage to support the braking sysem + Mil cable + plugs + relays + etc, etc your easily in the $300-400+ dollar range...

2530 - Vehicular Brake, Steering, Axle, Wheel & Tract Components Associated Part Numbers- 580555C91, 594849C91, 2530012702361, 012702361, 01-270-2361 Status Code: 4 - ITEM CANCELLED WITHOUT REPLACEMENT Replacement NSN: Cancellation Date: 2003, 15, 2 They were made for Rockwell by ABEX...

Another reason I installed gell cells in the pig... No corrosion issues!

Id grab the TM's and take a look at the two...

Yeah they are a new listing as of two weeks ago… http://odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_56_92 When I rebuilt my truck last year I was really frustrated when trying to find all of the weather stripping parts, I think it took over 8 weeks and 3 different suppliers to get everything I needed...

Disassembling the whole door is made much easier by taking it off of the truck... It’s a pain but it makes getting the window reg and latching assy back in MUCH easier with it laid flat.. Grease will help the reg and latch assembly but using it on the window runs (weather stripping channel...

This always frustrated me because the manuals list the bearings as a single PN but there is no "set number" in the civy world or even with most MV parts suppliers any more. I kinda made a mission out of righting this wrong about 2 months ago and got a manufacture to listen for a change… So now...

yep... works

testin...

http://odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_49 Joel, Yours comes with a free cable!

Your just missing some jumpers... THe harness you have is probably built to an older spec number, not a biggie. 21 and 22 to the RH light tie into the harness via splice jumpers from the lines feeding the trailer receptacle which should be in your old harness.

A hot tank is the fastest way to remove it but most of is dont have one of those sitting in the yard. I would suggest fudgeing a soak tank out of a 55 gallon drum and solvent, even diesel will work... Yeah its a waste to some extent but it sure beats doing it by hand.

Ditto on the LED's... Being that its civilian I would pursue David's suggestion and hit the local truck light places. I carry the Mil spec 12-36V LED light sets http://odiron.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=28_19&products_id=591 but they are not exactly the cheapest route for a civilian...

Might want to take a really close look at the end play in the gear box... The steering shaft or the box are the only two places that would allow for play like that.

RE: Re: RE: Deuce Door Seals Nothing at the moment but I will start looking into them. It usually takes a few weeks and sometimes months but I can generally find what ever is needed. I know I can get these surplus but I will not deal in surplus rubber / seals / kits / etc... To much of a risk...

Sounds like a job for stainless brake lines!!!.... Ouch!

Im now listing all of the weather stripping for the whole cab... Its taken some time to get it all up, now Im going to divide it into "kits" per door and per window... Any one have any suggestions they would like to see in this area? Whole cab kits? etc...

Me thinks we need an event sign up sheet!!!!

Noted . . . its the little things that make the job.

We'd love to help but ya know how it is....