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It can't have been cut that much; there'd be nothing left of the intake flanges. If you move the intake such that it is flush with the exhaust, the spot faced areas between the outer exhaust/intake ports line up perfectly. Looks to me like a bad copy or there are differences between the civvy...
I bought a new 302 gmc exhaust manifold from an online retailer to replace the dual exhaust on my 47 chevy pickup. Driveability is terrible without manifold heat. I mate the new exhaust and my old intake and the intake manifold is about an eighth of an inch back from the exhaust. I was told...
Sorry, but it doesn't work that way and you most certainly won't steer the vehicle left or right simply by pulling the column up or down. The truck from which I pulled the steering parts used a simple slip joint; nothing special. Whether the linear movement of the steering shaft is taken up...
My gasser harness uses 14 gauge wire which should be fine for most any normal 12V loads. I'd be more concerned with the light switch but that could also be replaced with a 12V equivalent IF it fails.
What has been called the "new" style here and by several vendors is actually the very early flame heater nozzle and requires the solenoid valves to prevent the fuel from constantly leaking out.
My dodge/ cummins with 100 more horsepower has a smaller and longer exhaust. I doubt that there is much magic to be found by a larger exhaust in the M35.
Senders aren't 12 or 24V; they just change in resistance with what you are tyring to measure. Hoever, the guage will need the appropriate voltage. It may be easiest to get a matched set from the aftermarket. I would probably just gety a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Starter wiring will be fine...
There is a HUGE aftermarket for all variety of things automotive. There are a lot of forums which discuss upgrades using aftermarket parts to go faster in antique vehicles using stock drivetrains or stock suspensions. None of these forums are as paranoid as SS.
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