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Maybe perfectly fine for you:mrgreen:... If stuck with a carb, I want the best one I can get. Even if I were to rebuilt the original, there are DESIGN differences that you are not considering. For example, the economaster carbs have a number of improvements developed in search of better...

In short, they work better. We installed one of Stovebolt's carbs on my brother's M37:better driveability and starts. I put a newer Holley 2300 economaster on my M35; significantly better performance. You have to give credit to the fact that carbs did get better with time.

I am not saying that the transmission gear set isn't the easiest and most cost effective solution. It is what I would do. However, I don't believe that the shift up in each gear is necessarily a bad thing. First gear is plenty low even in high range. Depends on the tires you are running and...

You've got the low transfer case range for this.

Somone on SS hinted at a much simpler method of reducing pedal pressure but I don't remember the details.

I know that the servo is SUPPOSED to reduce pedal effort, it just wasn't obvious to me.

My 1947 chevy pickup had the huck non-servo brakes and my 1948 was converted to the bendix servo brakes and I really couldn't tell a difference. Might be a lot of work to find out the same on an M35.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/71438-another-hf54-conversion.html

I was quoted $1200. But I may have misunderstood; the salesman was very hard to understand. The cost and difficulty of working with Garrison led me to the HF54. With two systems already outlined in GREAT detail on SS (HF54 and the Saginaw), I really can't understand why there is still...

Put your idea out on the forum already. If it is the Garrison setup, pay them to design it and you have exclulsive rights to sell.

There's got to be a floormat from a pickup that is similar enough to work.

If this is the Garrison control valve drag link you are talking about; nothing new and anybody can call them up and buy one. They quoted me a price of $1200 just for the valve. Then add the pump and the slave cylinder; probably creeping close to the $2k mark. You still have a truck that takes...

The TMs say it is OK to weld the frame.

The blade speed will vary with ground speed.

You have to give it a quarter turn and it will stay out.

I seem to remember them all being blind holes.

I did a few things which GREATLY helped a hot start. The first was using a holley 2300 carb which better tolerates a hot soak and a paper filter which lets the vapors escape. A 12V armature helped spin the engine faster, and electronic civilian ignitiion gave a hotter spark.

No, if you increase the resistance in a circuit, the current in the circuit drops and with it the I^2R (heating) losses. Motors will increase current draw in weak circuits and burn out. Light bulbs will just burn dim if there is high resistance. However, lght bulbs usually fail at startup and...

Mine were all air cooled; same as the multifuels.

If you can find one, a civvy distributor with a pertronix is a major improvement.