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I think I know what you are asking for. Post #260 in this thread is I think the answer: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74514-M1007-CUCV-Suburban-Clone-Build-Thread/page7

I went and found my 11 year old thread about this too. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?17290-Gasser-Cab-Install&highlight=

I’m 100 miles or so from you with a few spare gauges as well. What is the gauge doing exactly? If the needle just stays over past F then that is normally a sender issue. You can reach in over the tank from the drivers rear wheel area. That is where the ground wire several people already...

With the cab doors and roof off. An engine hoist works very well at pulling the cab off and on.

Exactly. The 1-1/2"-2" length difference is probably the issue. Adjust or lengthen your linkage.

Yes. All the doors that move inside there have some kind of seal on them. New seals make it really nice.

Alpine, when you get to doing the under dash stuff. Take the entire evaporator housing apart and put new foam in. It really makes a difference. Sharecropper, glad you got her on the phone. She was super nice when I spoke with her as well a few years ago. The holes in the brackets are sized for...

They all should start faster than you can let go of the key after pushing it forward. Since you have consistent slower starting. I would suggest getting the batteries load tested. If they are at 800 CCA minimum each. Then check all the leads between the battery terminals, the firewall mounted...

If all the above suggestions check out. Look at your torque converter to flex plate bolts.

Put a magnet up the slot the push rod lives in. There is no place for it to go but out of the fuel pump mount location.

I don't know about the roof ac. I do know that unless you insulate the entire truck top and bottom it won't do any good while driving in full sun. I have a NAP in dash on my M1009. I get 28° air out of the vents that make my eye brows flap in the breeze. Being bald, that is all I get. Yet...

I went Dakota Digital on my Cowdog project. It was a 12 volt truck from the start and I wanted gauges that were accurate. I also had a passenger side drop NP241 electronic speedo transfer case on that project so that made it easier. Look at LMC and their analog gauge set ups for the square...

I had the same thing on my M715 with a 6.2 last week. Fired it up, it ran for a minute or so and then died. No restart. I changed out the 3 year old filter, bled it and it fired on the 3rd try. Start simple on these engines. Battery grunt to turn a good starter. Air into the engine and a...

GM had a dual alternator set up for service vehicles like ambulances. Single thermostat and dual thermostat versions. I have not yet figured out how to isolate ground the CS130. There is a guy selling GMx turbo down pipes for the square body trucks on eBay that fits inside the frame rails. I...

Looks good. I did a Banks kit on a GEP 6500 a few years ago and am building another GEP 6500 currently in my class with the GM turbo set up. How did you run your cross over pipe and down pipe?

Yes, the mechanical pump can be changed without an oil gusher. Pull the pink pink wire if you are going to check for fuel pump flow. Otherwise air will get sucked in. With proper flow and psi. A dry IP should take about 2 minion cranking to get primed again at most. I crank with half...

I think that yellow paint might give you another 20 hp and 40 foot pounds of grunt Rich. Looking good.

YAHOO! You Always Have Other Options That is what I thought as I read through some of the suggestions I didn't consider before my first reply.

The bolt heads are rounded and you can't turn them to remove the drive shaft? Or, you stripped the threads out of the yoke removing the bolts? Put the transfer case in neutral and you can tow it. Hack saw the yoke straps off and then replace them with the new bolts you already need to buy.

Interesting. Thanks for the link.