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I agree. Negative pressure can only result from the mechanical lift pump not pumping. The IP is doing all the work in other words. Or, as suggested above you have a clogged sock in the tank and the mechanical pump just can't get anything to pump. It looks like you have the PSI gauge in the...

Drivers side alternator charges the front battery and keeps the truck running. Passenger side alternator charges the rear battery and is only used for a stock starter motor and stock glow plug system. If your truck starts up like it should. Less than a second of cranking time. Then that back...

It reads like you have a broken foot, need to drive your CUCV to work and now it can't be driven because your alternator rear housing is broken. Correct? Put your passenger side alternator on the drivers side, wire it up and isolate the wires that went to the passenger side alternator so they...

No need to pull the intake. Just pull the air filter and use a flashlight to look around. I was motivated by this thread and cooler weather to come home and crawl around my M715. I found a probably original house between the fuel tank and lift pump. I replaced it and all is well again. I can’t...

Remove the hose from the lift pump to the fuel filter at the fuel filter. It should be under pressure and squirt fuel so have a rag handy. If you just get a dribble, then pressure is being lost either back through the mechanical lift pump or from a hose or at the IP. Does your new fuel filter...

Start at the firewall. If you use a 10mm socket to unbolt the wires at the back of the fuse panel. Everything will unplug. That plug is actually 3 different plugs snapped together. Rear harness, under hood and front lights. Use appendix E from the back of the -20 manual to verify you are getting...

Unfortunately, no. You have low pressure fuel at the inlet to the Injection Pump. Now, the pump has to take the fuel and turn I into timed high pressure pulses. You do have several options: Don't touch anything and just crank the engine for around 10-15 seconds. Wait 2 minutes and repeat...

I don’t know what a holding loop is. I even did a search and couldn’t find anything related to any Diesel engine besides common rail ones. What are you trying to do?

The stock direct drive support bracket went out of production a few years ago. Only available used now. The reduction drive starter motor bracket is still available new.

I always thought the knurling was there because that is the part that is supposed to be in contact with the aluminum starter motor nose. Being a US made part 35 years ago, tolerances were not exactly all that tight in the design and even looser in practice. Plus, there is the support bracket...

I am not trying to pick a fight with any one. The reason I suggested replacement of the regulators is I used to think a few extra volts with no load meant no big deal I can just turn on the lights and all will be fine. One of my M1009's was always at the top of the green and 28.8-29.2 volts...

Anymore that 14.4 volts points to a bad voltage regulator. I suggest replacement. Delco 27 si alternator is what the trucks came with.

I think it is Wreckerman that describes the window crank design best: "Invented by an idiot after consulting a committee of morons." It reads like you have the tail gate laying flat with the panel off to access the inside already and the glass either removed or out of the way and supported...

Glad to help. Be nice to those switches by the way. Nobody is making them anymore.

There are two toggles for the black out and service lights on the CUCV trucks. The black out drive light is a momentary switch. If you have the other switch set to black out lights and then hit the black out drive light switch. The drive light should turn on but the switch will go back to the...

The 6.2 is an indirect injection engine. Any temperature below 150° is considered cold to this style of engine and glow plug use is needed. Keep that in mind once you get the batteries and starter right.

The air regulator is on the engine side of the firewall pretty much in the middle. But they click and thunk. Not howl. Look under the radiator at the frame rail on the drivers side. That is where the horn wire comes out of the steering column shaft. That wire is hot at all times so put on...

Do you mean the fuel return lines?

Do all he listed above since they are common maintenance items you should be doing anyway. Also check your vacuum line from the vacuum pump to the throttle position valve on the side of the OP and then both rubber and metal vacuum lines all the way to the transmission. Plus the vacuum can on...

Check battery voltage. If you have good terminals at the battery, voltage at the battery and still nothing with any switch inside. Try removing all the ground wires, cleaning them and putting them back together. If still nothing, check voltage at the starter motor. If present there, you...