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No need to pull the dash panel cover. Two bolts and the mounting plate will come out. It is right above the big diagnostic plug at the center of the dash.

Welcome from Oklahoma

Had a fellow member get his M813A1 get stuck. Then my M818 got stuck trying to get him out. Had to bring out the M816 Wrecker to pull both out. It was just a few feet off the pavement. No mudding going on. Luckily it only cost some fuel and not a tow bill.

If you need a torque converter I have a couple dozen 6 bolt units. I have the part number at work. I'll post it tomorrow.

The Voltmeter relay is under the dash next to the GEN2 relay and the Starter relay. They share a mounting plate. Remove two bolts on the lower center dash and it will come out. Also there is a resistor inside the voltmeter that makes it work with the 24v system. They are known to go bad. Many...

Not telling you to read the manuals but there are test procedures for each component in alternator section of the TM 9-2320-289-34 manual. The three common failure items are the trio diode, regulator and the rectifier. Majority of the time it is the trio diode. You can easily test the trio...

Have you checked for holes in the exhaust? Also make sure the throttle cable is secure on the air breather. It can vibrate and cause a noise that is hard to find.

Because we all are suppose to be here waiting to answer everyones questions. Didn't you know that? ;-)

No. Snip away. We have talked about this many times. It is even covered in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky.

Just blame it on the black cats and walking under ladders. It is Friday the 13th. Only reason I am on is that I am rebooting servers after software updates.

I didn't even see this message. ;-) I was never here. Nothing to see. Move along, these are not the droids we are looking for. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

www.OKCAuctionServices.com does this on a daily basis. They even have good deals on shipping rates. The owner is a member here.

If you put a Ford relay in then when you get rid of the truck the new owner will come here begging to know how to make it work. Use the NAPA ST85 or an S603 from other shops and fix it right. You can make the stock system work in manual mode with just two wires and a momentary switch.

This is what you have http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/airpack.html

Have you downloaded the free technical manuals? TM 9-2320-289-20 has a step-by-step procedure to test the glow plug system. It helps to find out if all the wiring is working before you start spending money. Also have you read and watch the Glow Plug Operation thread? It cover show a stock...

http://www.xm381.com/xm381/Civi_Trailer_Lights.html

The ignition switch controls when power is supplied to the various components when in run and start. And there is no need for SOS or HELP in your titles unless your life is in danger or you are broken down on the side of the road.

There will be a "TD" cast in the BLOCK. It has absolutely nothing to do with the truck. There is no M35A2D truck. The C or D turbos are interchangeable. Put which ever one you want on it. Whistle or no-whistle, it is your choice.

Txhunter, each of the issues you are having problems with are covered in the troubleshooting section of the tech manuals. Also when I have a new military truck that I am looking to find a part, I download the parts manual for that truck and thumb through the pictures until I find the item I...

That website www.glowplugcards.com belongs to our fellow member AntennaClimber. His cards are manufactured by veterans and the price includes shipping. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75092-Glow-Plug-Module-Manufacture