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Many thanks to everyone for your help and knowledge! I'll clean it all up, grease the bearings and put it back together. I got some Selectro lockouts last year before the prices skyrocketed and am putting them on now as well as painting the MRAP wheels so I'll post some pictures when its done...
I guess I should learn what backing off the brakes means:), either way I didnt do it. The hub spun fine so I assume backing off the brakes wasnt needed? I ended up using a tool I made for a wheel balancer I built (seen here...
From what I see of the bearing, it looks fine. It spins smooth and has never made any noise or been warmer than the other wheels.
I like Kohburn's idea for the puller, its simpler than the idea I was thinking of. Looks like I'd need to use the inner bud thimbles as he mentioned too. I'll try...
I CANT GET A FRONT HUB OFF because the wheel bearing appears stuck on the shaft!
Front Drivers side came off fine, but the front passenger side is stuck. The bearing just wont come loose from the support shaft.
To my knowledge the bearing is fine, it isnt any hotter than the rest of them...
AIRPAK Lubrication plug removal tool (easy to get)
I ran across this thread about an easy to get tool for removing the rear square plug of the Long style Air Packs (in order to lubricate the air pack with air tool oil) and thought it would be worth while posting it on the deuce thread as well...
Yes, there are holes in the drums to let the oil or grease drain but they can get clogged (as mine did) and there was no evidence of leaks. In my case I flipped the hubs for new wheels and noticed that the seals on 3 of my 4 rear wheels were bad and the brakes were covered with axle lube. Never...
I actually made 12 of them and sold them in the classifieds. There wasnt enough interest to have gone ahead and had a special order of these made. I've got enough components to make a few more, if you are interested PM me. It doesnt include the 2 gauges however, just the openings for them...
I added a fold up bench seat to my truck. As well as a lot of cabinets. For the bench seat I ended up mounting it over the wheel well area since that was the location I wanted it. To make it safe, I put a 1/4" plate of steel over it and then bolted that to the cross members below. The seat is...
Okay,
Finally had a couple nice days and was able to paint the interior of the cab and put the new data plates on (of course its snowing again and its May 1st). Anyway, the nice set of plates I got from Greg at dataplates.net came with a couple extra plates that my truck did not have...
I dont think the OP was about all braided lines, but rather all stainless. As the other posts mention, the original steel lines will eventually rust out either from the outside in or the inside out. The remaining lines are rubber flex and will rot out quicker yet. My own opinion is that...
so does the shock absorber get eliminated then? Do the airbags meant for seats have any dampening in them? Just curious.... great modification! I especially like how it would give you some control over seat height so talk folks like me can lower it a bit to get some more room.
I used a 3" x 1.5" aluminum tube, it has 1/4" walls. I'm just going to bolt it to the windshield uprights with a few 1/4-20 cap screws. Another odd thing I didnt notice at first until I was test fitting stuff is that the windshield frame sides (where Im mounting too) arent parallel. I assumed...
The flood lights have a 60 degree light spread and the spots have a 30 degree spread. They look about the same as a typical incandecent bulb but the light is just whiter and brighter..... they arent as brite as those Truck-Lite "LED ROUTE CLEARANCE LIGHTS" that are about double the wattage (and...
LIGHT BAR for the Deuce, w/ search light & Solargizer panel
Earlier this year I got one of the larger solargizer kits with the 12v & 24v taps from Jeff (JOateyNV) out of the classifieds. I didnt want to put any holes in the top of anything (either my 109 box roof or the hardtop roof) so one...
.... as long as it isnt rusted on too tight. No way mine would have come off with channel locks or a pipe wrench, I tried. I guess like many things, "results may vary"
I wish I would have bought the tools. I didn't have the time to wait so i made my own out of a scrap piece of 1/2" aluminum and used a big adjustable wrench on the back. Penetrating oil was a must. I also had to put some pin punches in to try to spread the threaded clamps....... It was really on...
Your tractor looks like a pretty handy tool for a bobber project! I never looked into the bobbing process, but do all bobbers get the drive shaft extended or is it just the truck that you mentioned you were extending by a foot?
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