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i use a stant pressure system tester, there are a few tests to perform, one is when you Start the truck and see how long it takes to build pressure in the overflow tank, the other is too pump 15psi into the system and see how long It takes to leak down And lastly testing the radiator cap...

Your particular radiator is the early round tube, they are basically garbage to try and repair, the later model uses a flat tube from top to bottom. if you order a new radiator now from MAC, they are the new OEM Aluminum. Try completely removing the thermostat and test drive it.

An NA truck can use either Tach, a turbo truck has to use the generator sourced Tac. The NA can draw a signal from the Tach drive

Yes, look at the rivet lines for example, not the same rivet lines as production. The rockers have what appears to be more than double the amount of rivets compared to production

there is “actual“ and than there is “indicated” as we say in the aviation world. if Your engagement is at 230, you should be replacing your thermostatic switch and or temp gauge. At my shop, every truck that comes in “several weekly” from Barstow, get a road test, the No.1 test is the fan...

I few more issues than cost…several of these are not ideal IMO. 1. The cost of the waterless coolant is much higher. If you were to use a standard coolant or antifreeze in your vehicle, then the product cost would be around $20 per gallon. The cost of the waterless coolant from Evans, which is...

If it’s so great, why aren’t the manufacturers using it? I’ve been a diesel mechanic for over 30yrs, not a gimmick fan.

That’s an additional ground stud, you will find it wired with a massive ground cable in the 400amp equipped trucks, it runs to the 400amp generator ground stud. Its just a stud on a 200amp truck. I guess AMG a figured out that while they added a bunch of positive tie point, they forgot they...

230 is a bit high…220 is where you want to be.

OEM is 15psi cap, stay away from gimmicks that say you don’t need hose clamps and caps.

Need header and rocker armor, as well as correct mounting blocks to install flat doors..

IMO the Luverne BG offer the best protection as it’s a sturdy piece of steel, all the rest are flimsy garbage. not sure why the military ceased buying them, perhaps because they are too heavy? outside of mounting them an M998 or standard bumper plate, you would need to do some fabrication work...

that linkage is moved via the fuel cutoff solenoid, it sticks due to old fuel or as I’ve had happen far to often, algae in the fuel, if algae, you must kill it at the source as well as everywhere down stream from the source, basically start at the fuel tank.

the fuel filter is not busted…that’s how they are right out of the box, doesn’t affect function.

The M1165A1 REV’s didn’t sit like the M1123’s, these trucks were in service only a few years ago. I’ve found no contamination in the fuel, in fact, of all the REV’s I own “4” and have had come through the shop,they all have had JP8 in the tank. Your issue is fuel starvation…you need to go...

Your keyed switch is wired wrong or failed, I woult immediately remove it and install an OEM switch

No, the aluminum roof is standard width, the turret holes is larger until the “slewing ring” is installed into the hole that allows the bearing to be mounted into it.

Circuit breakers for Air conditioning condensers.

yes, a hmmwv is hmmwv, any hmmwv part will fit, as long as you have all the correct parts that go with a alum roof, but than you have to figure out what to do with rear C pillar support Area, the C-pillar is different. you can install a new style turret into an older Slantback roof and support...

It wouldn’t be cheaper, but parts are more more plentiful and can be ordered as it’s current production parts. the 11XX sill uses a “turret support” just not like the 10 series trucks…that 11 series support has to be used in an 11 series aluminum roof.