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Yep that is what I was thinking. Depending on which CAMO color goes in that area I will use a contrasting color to highlight the damage. BTW the metal in that area is close to 3/8" thick. (maybe thicker) That would explain why it did not go all the way through.

If it's battle damage I might want to keep it intact except for painting it.

I'll be there with CUCV.

The HMMWV tire carrier cam in today. Sucker is HEAVY! Some serious heavy gauge metal throughout. I knew it had some rust on the arm. When I saw the actual rust I was very surprised. It has some serious craters that are very rough. They don't look like they rusted through. I think it is...

I discussed the idea of adding a toggle switch on the dash to shut off the electric fuel pump when I am towing the truck. Since I unlock the steering wheel when flat towing the M1008 I did not want the pump to be on the entire trip. He said it was not necessary to go through all the work since...

I just got off the phone with CSM Davis. I have to retract my statement about the parts from the M936 being parted out as replacement for your M816 wrecker. According to Jeff (he has 1st hand knowledge of both models of wreckers) the parts you may need from under your wrecker are not at all...

If you can show me a picture of the "pump" that needs replacing on the boom I can probably get you a replacement from some wreckers they are going to scrap in the next few weeks. This is an opportunity to get it cheap since they are scrapping, not parting out. PM me if interested.

You can try to pressurize the fuel tank (5 to 7# is enough) and then see if you can start the engine or you may find a leak in the hose going from the fuel filter to the IP.

Mine is set to only come on if the key is turned on. I may put a manual switch on the dash in case I need to leave the key on for unlocking the steering wheel when the truck is being flat towed.

DH said no Ebay listings in any format because some members can't understand the difference.

The gear reduction brackets are still available. Its the full size starter brackets that are rare. I will look up the part # and post it here.

Thanks for posting. (I got banned for posting Ebay listing) Just ordered one as a spare.

You need to replace the starter bracket. Otherwise you risk the starter housing braking or broken starter bolts. I have a dimension drawing of the starter bracket if you cannot locate one.

I have the same issue with a leaky IP. Mine leaks where the throttle shaft goes into the IP. I replaced my mechanical fuel pump and that helped keep the fuel from draining back towards the fuel tank and letting air into the line. I just had a electric fuel pump installed inline closer to the...

You were lucky you didn't burn yourself pulling the positive clamp off the battery. I had a runaway started on my M936 and I got severe burns on my hand from grabbing the clamp to stop the starter. FYI if your battery does not provide enough voltage the starter will pull more amps and could...

Next project is the HMMWV spare tire carrier mod. It should be here Monday. Weather permitting I will start to modify it to fit the truck Tuesday.

WOW talk about piecing it together. Still congrats on your acquisition.

We did the 2nd option you mentioned today. I will detail it later tonight. Once we replaced the fuel pump push rod (5.3 inches long not the 5.7) the pump primed the system quickly on the first crank. We got the truck to start and run. After a brief discussion my mechanic made some calls and...

Do you have it wired with the key switch or a manually operated switch on the dash? Brand and model of pump? Any other pertinent info I can use? There is a T connection on the frame on the passenger side. It might be easier for me to install it there.

Now that you suggested it, maybe I can make a setup that allows me to insert an electric pump into the system that i can use in an emergency. Need two shut off valves, two T's, pump and fuel hose to make it. Will put it on the to do list for later.