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The GEN1 and GEN2 bulbs have to be working in order for the alternators to work. That is part of the circuit design. Use you multimeter to check the voltages at both batteries with the truck off and running.

I was referring to ChrisG needing to start his own thread with all his truck issues. You have been around long enough to be a BIG help to the members. Thanks for helping out.

The stock cables are 2 gauge. Some member have used even bigger.

If the GEN1 alternator had the fiber washers installed inside the case and did not have the ground wire on the ground post, it would never work correctly. You would be amazed at the number of people with new trucks that contact me to help them "fix" the creative wiring that the previous owners...

As you have discovered running the wire from the block to the alternator case is the incorrect way of hooking up an isolated ground unit. The whole idea of "isolated ground" is to separate the internal components from the case.

From the factory GM installed the same alternator on both sides of the truck. That way the military only had to stock one type of alternator. To make the isolated ground unit work on the drivers side(GEN1) they added a ground wire from the ground stud to the engine block.

One thing you need to do is trace all the "extra" wiring you have on your batteries. I sure see a lot of it. Also the battery cable terminals you are using are really for temporary use.

Almost all of the questions you will have, have been asked many times over the years. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?28885-M35A2-Sound-Deadening-Project http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?86442-Deuce-Floor-Insulation...

ChrisG you really need to start your own thread instead of adding to this 5 year old thread.

As stated earlier, make sure all you vacuum lines are install and in good condition. With replacing the tranny you may have missed one.

Some things to check on the cluster: circuit board (film) - contacts can be dirty or damaged bulbs - contacts can be dirty, damaged or burnt out bulb holders - contacts can be dirty, damaged or bent Here are the cluster threads from the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky...

Fellow member Al Harvey created this PDF file of the fusebox. Print it off and keep it in your glovebox. Thanks Al

Chances are there is a dirty connection at the wiring harness plug. Removing the cable you most like bumped it and disturbed the connection.

Questions: when you removed the speedo cable how did you do it? Reach up from behind and release the snap? Did is you remove the instrument cluster? It it may be a good idea to remove the cluster and clean it. Over the years did grime and corrosion will play havoc with the connection...

To post it for sale here you will need to be a premium member. No idea on the value.

The current group of trucks being sold on GovPlanet are being sold as "off road use only". No titles or SF-97 will be provided. There are buyers that think rules and contract obligations do not apply to them. On this website we will not allow any discussion on how to circumvent those rules.

Hopefully he found a truck in the last three years. Would have been nice if he would have posted a follow up.

He fixed it by replacing the fuse he installed before to replace a fusible link.

Find the end that Erik's uses and substitute the 4-flat connector

You need something different. Erik sells one. item X-6034