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I mean, CTIS might get you close to that 6" in emergency mode...

Working on the attachment rails for the shipping container, also checking out and fixing the iffy mounting of the aux cooler. Cleaning out tons of rocks from it too.

Just FYi, I have had pretty good luck with the Dearborn 3+ using a serial adapter for everything except the wabco software(win10). Connects but. Doesn't read anything useful, strange. Waiting on a laptop with a serial port to arrive and will try again.

That quick release valve looks different than mine, although that could be okay. When mine continued to vent it was due to leaks to the wheel valve. The hoses had small holes visible when sprayed with soapy water. There are other things that can cause this though, leaks in pcv for example.

Sorry Chucky, it's all bolted back up you missed your chance!

On mine I measured the distance to bump stops and made sure the box is several inches further than that, I forget how much more exactly. I am going to put skid plates on the box in case in a crossed up situation the tires to touch. With smooth plates (probably PTFE) the tires won't really be...

Full day of work on the truck, repairing the crappy fix in above thread. Ground out and welded cracks. Let the kids do some painting as well, they still need practice. They were helpful tightening the bolts though. Waiting for a mcmaster order for the last few bolts but it's basically done...

It's interesting how the popular thing is having a camper that is isolated from the frame with pivots or springs. Obviously this one is hard connected. Seems if you have a weak habitat you may want to isolate but if rigid, bolt that sucker to the frame. Edit: it's interesting to see the frame...

That still would be about half the braking force. While rpms might match the 2:1 torque increase is not longer there

Yes. The 2:1 ratio. While rpm makes a difference, the effect of braking is exactly 1/2 half what it was before at any given rpm (ignoring gear efficiency)

Saw this for $39, plugged it in and it works perfectly! Nice to have a low priced win for once. These trucks are expensive!

Mine is a 2007 and all 6 had a fair amount of corrosion, but they cleaned up really nicely. I was only having one with a leak down issue but I would rebuild all of them. They are really pretty easy.

Oddly, mine is an 07 with 1900(supposedly) miles and I do get detectable play at the joints. It's not much but it's there. I already have the boots themselves.

Searched all the threads I can find on this topic but couldn't find any part numbers for replacing these? Seems the standard is to find a NOS entire link but was hoping someone had found civilian replacement part #? I do have the one with replaceable joints on both ends.

Had a leak from my front CTIS fill line. After looking around for replacement lines and only finding new old stock that may be 20 years old... I just decided to replace everything with McMaster-Car equipment. Now I've got push connects directly to the connectors with polyurethane lines. System...

Took off the braces that someone added due to a tweak in the frame. Frame is pretty straight, although you can see a wave if you look down the length of it. These braces that were added are grade school level. They obviously drilled holes while the brace was in place and there are huge amounts...

I purchased my aluminum door handle with rubber covers on eBay for $8 each, I have an FDM printer but there's no way it makes sense at that price and durability level.

Yep

Regarding the oil in the amphenol connector. I don't have proof but I've heard many times that oil can get into the wires and capillary from one spot to the other. So it may not be the Amphenol that's bad but it could have been one of the plugs bathed in oil that allowed a leak path.

Checking CTIS seal leak rate into the axle breathers. Took about six cycles to fill up one glove and about 10 for the other. I'm really not too concerned about that level of leak.