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the ch42 champion plug that is in the link is the proper glow plug. you cant go by what champion says. unfortunately they dont even know what the thread size is for it.

No you shouldnt see any smoke from preheating. When you do it next time just do yourself a favor and feel the wires to make sure they are not hot.

X2, jerry does a great job on this. He has done i think 14 of them for me now.

When you first started it it didnt run fast enough to flash the field and get that thing generating power. That would be normal. As fir your starter there is a cutout switch. Its under a little cover just above the oil filter. Could be stuck

No diesel should be trickling back into the tank. Plunger has nothing to do with it. Fuel enters, fills the ip and flows out the return line. It usually takes a minute before you hear it trickling back into the tank and may be hard to hear if the tank is full. It will do all this in the prime...

Fuel going in the pump and none coming out then you might as well just pull it. Plunger prob got stuck and stripped out or broke the drive washer or bowtie as we call it. No big deal to fix really.

yes assuming this is an 003 we are talking about then those are oil lines. i do believe its the same as regular brake line but i never really took any measurements to compare the two. i know when i bought my gen the #2 cyl fuel return line had a brake line rigged in its place and it fit and...

Adding to what harley said, also if the solenoid does work. When the plunger lifts be sure the gov linkage rod comes all the way up freely. The one i just had here would bind and not pull up on the ip arm all the way where it should. Had to lube and readjust to work freely.

As long as you have the lines out if the way there isnt really much there you can hurt. All that stuff is really solid

As munchie said you need to twist them while pulling up or something under the cooling fins to put upward pressure while you wiggle back and forth with a big wrench, channel locks. Etc. a little heat works wonders

The hz has nothing to do with voltage regulator. The hz is set by engine rpm.

if it were me i would run it. not permanently of course but you can certainly run it to work out all the kinks in the unit. i would think the air cleaner assy would be easily available for delks, saturn, colemans or any of those places.

this may work for you. by the pics it just looks like youll need one flare end for it but not sure. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?100592-Fuel-line-kit-for-generators-12-ft-long-NEW-great-deal!!&highlight=FUEL+HOSE

you dont need mil-spec wire. if the whole wire is fried its a pretty good bet that a component went bad and shorted out.

You could convert the one with missing parts over to spin-on. I dont know your gen at all but the ones we use for the fuel on the 002-003 are wix number 4770 i believe. Pick it up right from napa.

Should only take a couple few seconds of holding to flash the field.

Same with me. I thought my 003 was doing fantastic but i had nothing to compare to until i got this 002 done. 002 ran a little too smooth compared to the 003 and only thing i didnt do was an injector tune up so out they came.

i have an 002 here now that a guy dropped off for me to work on. its doing something similar with the rpm as your but not quite that bad. with the throttle all the way in its runnin around 63hz. i managed to get it down by adjusting the governor spring so its down low on the adjustment and i...

haha yeah its call some genius didn't know what he was doing. really i dont think there is supposed to be any 45's on there with an ask. the exhaust should point down to absorb the sound and then the fumes just rise out of the chamber.

yeah john, i dont want to say it was 100% clear, it is diesel after all, but i saw no noticeable difference in exhaust between say 50% and 120-130%. 120 i got nothing sooty coming out that i can see in daylight. at 120-130 it didnt even sound like the engine was lugging at all. only time i saw...