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You've got a short somewhere in your system, more than likely in the circuit for the blower motor. Could be bad wiring, but sometimes components can short out as well (in which case they will show zero resistance on a voltmeter) Also, the GEN1 light is fused off of the heater blow motor fuse, so...

Not sure about the laws in VA, but don't mess around with the trailer wiring. Splice the hot wire for the license plate lights into the brown hot wire for the running lights. Obviously, the ground goes to the ground. Works like a charm. Butt connectors and heat shrink tubing makes for a great...

Wall Street Journal, 2/9/93: "The Most Dangerous Vehicle on the Road" by Walter Olson Walter Olson home page - The Dubious "Experts" Behind TV Crash Tests (Washington Post, 2/28/93) Gm Vs Nbc Dateline | NBC vs. GM: The Peacock Stumbles : Television: The public confession is one of the low...

The whole "GM Firebomb" thing was complete and total BS. Here's some reading kids: Chevrolet C/K - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and Dateline NBC - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Long story short, NBC aired a special on Dateline with a video showing a GM-made pickup from this era (early...

Watch this: In this case, he's turning it up. Go the opposite way to turn it down. Also, having a vehicle that's in good mechanical shape (I.E. periodic maintenance, correct tire pressures, etc.) can help a lot with fuel economy. Same goes for removing unnecessary weight. I used to roll around...

But, but, but, the exhaust from my Cummins is bigger than a mushroom cloud! So I must have like, 23 gajillion horsepower! Right?

Technically, you're not adding an auxiliary tank, you're relocating the position of the tank and adding a bigger tank, but whatever, I'll bite. As far as a tank I'd probably go with this or something like it: RDS Auxiliary Fuel Tank — 60-Gallon Capacity, Model# 72771 | Auxiliary, Transfer, +...

Mine does the same thing-a bit of smoke when it's cold, on fast idle and getting warmed up. The black smoke is probably from the WMO in the mix. The only thing I can think of to help you with this is turning down the fuel a bit (probably 1/8 turn, 1/4 at the most) or adding a turbo (in which...

I wish my 870 fit. Doesn't matter though, looks like the truck and the gun are both going bye-bye pretty soon :-( Close to $400 for ONE textbook? Jeez...

Maybe. Typically blue smoke is indicative of oil getting into the fuel, usually because of bad piston rings, bores or both. Black smoke is usually indicative of unburnt fuel in the exhaust I.E. too rich. In this case, my guess is the engine can't quite burn some of the stuff you're throwing in...

One cycle of the glow plugs and a quick blip of the throttle as soon as the truck gets started for me. Then just let the truck sit and warm up before driving. Works like a charm for me. I've used this technique all the way down to 0 degrees F and I haven't had to hit the key for much longer than...

I'd say start tracing down those brown wires. Those voltages sound WAY too low... IIRC they should be or fairly close to 12V for GEN1 and 24V for GEN 2. The voltages you're getting are 2/3 of the voltage of the red wires. You'd be surprised how much cleaning up contacts can help. I've seen...

Let's see... Filled up on Wednesday and am down to about half a tank today. Driving to school mostly (26.8 miles, 53.6 miles round trip according to google maps) with a few side trips. If speed permits, I'll keep it around 60 on the speedo (I've got a M1028 BTW) I've noticed the speedo is...

Oops. My mistake. Thought he was talking about the one in the dash... I've a M1028A1 (NP205 T-case) so the only way I can really tell is through feel (steering binds up, truck goes unusually slow, etc.) That and just remembering whether I left it in 2H, 4H or 4LO, but I also don't use my 4wd...

Yes. My lights kinda so-so too. I really don't worry about it. I know when I'm in 4wd and when I'm not. Here's the wiring diagram. Notice the 4wd light switch. I'd say see if you can bypass that switch and get the light to come on. If you can then it's more than likely a bad switch. If not, then...

Grab a case of beer and tell them there will be free beverages. :beer: That should help.

Depends on what you drive and how you drive it. If you're driving a M1009 around at 60, 65, maybe 70 tops on stockish tires, not really. If you want to do the same in one of the trucks (M1008, M1028, etc.) then yes. However, if you're like me and keep it around 55, 60 tops and just put up with...

It shouldn't. To the best of my knowledge those wires are for the fuel heater (two wires on top of base) and the fuel pressure sensor for the STE/ICE. If you could find somebody with the equipment to run a diagnostics test that MIGHT help you out, but I think there's all of 3 guys that fit that...

Yes. It is my understanding that the GEN1 light is fused off of the same fuse for the heater blower motor. IIRC the site bully has visually confirmed this. It is also my understanding that the GEN lights turn on when they are being electrically "starved." I.E. no electricity from the alts or not...

Been a while since I've seen it, but I'm familiar with the movie. I'm kinda partial to the scene where the whole platoon/company (like I said it's been a while) unloaded on the guy's Mercedes.rofl