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Found this while poking around the internets. Just a few pics, but from the look of it, they guy's had the truck converted over to 12 volt. Looks like he might also be running an intercooler. Oliver Diesel - Engines & Outdoors

I'd say do it yourself. If you pay someone, they always want more to do it. Firestone wanted to charge me something like $800 or $900 to do a coolant flush and put new shocks on the truck.:shock: And they had JUST THE BEST REASONING! Said it was because of "the age of the vehicle." I'd say go...

I'd have to say DrJekl is right. Haven't had the good fortune ( :roll: ) to need mine rebuilt yet, but the wiki seems to sum it up pretty well: 24V but can be changed to 12V. To convert to 12v, move the wire that goes to the starter (big red one) off the junction block on the fire wall and...

Alright, thanks guys. I'll try to create a new thread with pics and such if I can. For reference, the instructions can be found here: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechnicalmanuals/tm9-2320-289-34.pdf Chapter 4, paragraph 2.

Hey guys, it looks like I'm gonna be rebuilding GEN2 just as soon as I can get a rebuild kit from CUCV Electric. To that end, I looked up the rebuilding instructions in the TM and did a quick tear down and reassembly of another alt with a stripped bolt hole and questionable internals. On some of...

Nothing too crazy. Mine's a stock OD green M1028 with a license plate on the back. It seems to blend in pretty well. I've got the pintle hook and troop seats if I ever want to throw them in. My dad used to make it a point to drop my little sister off at birthday parties and such in what he...

:ditto: This has already been covered in the wiki and FAQ thread...

I started using the recommended starting procedure (wait light out, foot on throttle when starting, half or all the way, depending on temperature) for a week or two and it seemed to take longer to start than the old method I was using (wait light out, foot on brake instead of throttle, quick...

X 3 And it's a FORD...Shouldn't take that long to die.

Try checking the diagram below. From the looks of it, it's not a fuse. Probably the switch or the ground.

As a side note, I wish I had an M60 tank parked in front of my chateau. :D

The red wire off GEN 2 should have at least 24 volts (when running around 28.8 is better) The red wire with the white tracer should have at least 12 volts (again, 14.4 when running is better)

I put Yellow tops in my truck last year. Only time I had a problem like that was when the diode in GEN1 went bad. It's gotten chilly here this year (it was around freezing today during lunch) Have yet to have a problem with the batteries. I love them. I keep a spare set of cheapie batteries in...

:ditto: I've never really liked how the joints on these trucks are permanently sealed and ungreasable. I've heard of guys drilling holes in permanently sealed joints and installing a grease fitting, but I'd rather not take the chance of screwing something up. I'd rather just spend $30 or $40 on...

:ditto: No heaters and very little (maybe a bottle or two total) of anti-gel stuff this year and mine fires right up every time.

It's GM part # 10045847. GM parts direct has them for about $30. It is highly advised by the site bully and some others (names will not be mentioned. *cough*cough*Warthog*cough*Doghead*cough) that you download the CUCV TM's which can be found here: JATONKA's CUCV TM* download page If you ever...

Oh yeah. If I had known they were going to be that expensive, they would've made an AWESOME Christmas present! The AWS structural steel code book that I need is close is around $380 new. :shock: I still need to buy my toolkit, but that can wait for a bit. Around $270 or $280... the worst part...

About the same thing happened with mine. I went to take the bolts off and the casing actually cracked :shock: Not like "hair-line" crack either. Like "good-sized-pieces-came-off" crack. IIRC I got a new GPR109 from NAPA. Good price (around $30) and makes a nice loud clunking noise when it cycles...

Yep. I have jumped the front (12V) battery many times doing this, but also the rear as well. If both are dead you can slave cable them or jump them using two vehicles.

YAY! I get to use the non-destructive testing books I just paid $250 dollars for! And I'm renting used because I'm broke! As far as cracks in the casting straight from the factory go, from what I'm finding, the most common cause is hot tears/ shrinkage cracks. Basically, if a casting is...