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nopics
Oh, and if you think your truck's loud going down the road, try listening to it on fast idle with the hood up! After some basic maintenance the other day, I proceeded to fire the truck up. No s***, the thing shook for a good minute (I could literally feel the truck rocking from side to...
Assuming the alts are stock, then yes, GEN1 will work in the GEN2 location. Best way to find is to check them. You can put a "normal" alt (where its grounded to the case) in the GEN1 location without issues, but not the GEN2 position. You should notice your GEN2 has a negative stud. The reason...
Silly dogs. rofl
Great pics though. We finally got our first bit of snow this year here. Didn't take any pics. Figured the day would be better spent doing basic maintenance stuff (changed the oil and fuel filter, cleaned the air filter, fuel return and CDR valve)
:ditto:
Eh, they're not too bad if you're willing to put up with some of the "oddities" (mostly electrical for what its worth) and lack of creature comforts (Power nothing, no radio or A/C, etc. It should be noted that some people have managed to put this stuff in...
Where did you get the truck from? Looks like someone might have put them in later. You can still see the brown seat belt stuff. The one thing I've never understand about the CUCV interiors is the gray dash when the rest of the plastic stuff is brown.
Honestly, the rust doesn't look that bad to me. Especially when you consider they salt the roads around here in the wintertime. I think what people might be seeing is the red paint peeling off and the green underneath showing through.
Posting up auction links is a no-no, but has anybody else seen the Suburban that's up on fleabay right now? This thing is screaming to be made into an M1007.
As a side note, I'd check your glow plugs. I think the coldest its been here so far this year is 19 degrees. I don't use a block heater and I'm not running any anti-gel stuff (not yet anyways) and the truck hasn't taken anywhere near 10 seconds to crank. Usually about 2 seconds after the wait...
Not sure what your situation is, but sometimes you can work with the management. When I moved into where I'm at now I was told that vehicle maintenance/washing/etc. was prohibited. aua But I've worked slowly with the management and now I'm at the point where they don't care about it. Case in...
Probably, but best thing to do is watch the voltmeter. Does your voltage change when you hear this clunk? If so, then yes that is your GP relay kicking in.
-Ian
Might want to look into that. I replaced mine a while back. Cost me like $30 at NAPA. Check the FAQ thread or the wiki for the part #. You should be able to hear it with the wait light on. Its on the firewall up high on the driver side, so if you hear a loud clicking from there, you know its...
Not really if its using 12 volts as established by Mr. Doghead. When I start my truck up I can hear the GP relay clicking (as it should) and the voltmeter going crazy. Green, yellow, green, now yellow... I do know there's a 24V wire that attaches to the GP relay, but that's a story for another day.
Might want to pick up some PB blaster. Seems to be some pretty nasty s***. Supposedly if you leave it in a styrofoam cup, it'll eat through it. It's that good. Wonder how much that housing being aluminum and having 180-200+ degree coolant running through it had to do with your struggles. Dad was...
Theres a Haynes manual for the Chevy and GMC trucks from the '70s and '80s. It covers replacing the hubs. Its a little lacking in pictures, but has pretty good instructions.
Yep thats the seatbelt buzzer an the top of the fuse block. Theres another bolt on the other side (in the engine bay) that I always unscrew first just so thats out of the way.
:deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:
Autozone part # DL7157. Still 100 amps, about half the price and lifetime warranty. Rebuild GEN1 anyways and keep it as a spare for GEN2. Ask me how I know. . .
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