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Thought I'd start a thread to consolidate all the previous posts I have made about this.
Wheel studs:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=165717
Axle capacity:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=165796
Brake parts:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=165746...
I personally like having the ability to be able to remove the drums and service the brakes without disturbing and having to repack the bearings. So yes, there is a good reason to remove the drum from the hub if this is your preference as well.
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That seems strange you are having that much trouble. Mine were very loose on the hub. This may seem obvious, but I'll ask anyway to be sure: have you removed the two flat head retaining screws that hold the drums on the hub? (Your picture looks like you have). Short of that being the problem...
You know, those drums will come off without pulling the drum...
In any case, looks like you've got to figure out the inside dimensions of the wheel, and compare it to the size of the drum. Sorry, that ad doesn't seem to offer that information. I looked on the procomp website too, but didn't...
Yes, I knew about that already, but if a good deal on a used unit comes up, I'd like to know if I have the option to use one from one of the other models of trailers...
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By the way, does anyone know if any of the other trailers such as the M105 or M1101 (?) Use the same surge unit as the M101A2/A3? Just trying to determine if I can widen my search options...
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When I looked into swapping just the brakes on the A1 axle, I couldn't find anything that would work with the large spindle it has. You might have to replace the entire axle if you want electric brakes...
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Hi Zane,
That's exactly what I was thinking. The right side gates are the tight fitting side and look like they were made by a different manufacturer. They use an acorn nut instead of a regular nut (this is visible in some of your pictures). Also don't have a hole on the center of the welded...
Yeah, my cross member is bent even worse than Zane's. Trying to figure out the best way to bend it back without having to pull the bed off and put a pipe wrench on it...
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That's what I plan on doing with mine, as soon as I get around to drilling the holes in the front rail rail for the pins.
Zane, did you have to spread the flanges on the end gates at all to get them to fit? Mine are a bit tight, and will require some fitting to get them to work...
In any case...
Not a problem. I found a local source that would work, they're just not an exact match (a little longer OAL, and longer unthreaded section). I'd still like to find a closer match if I can, but what I have right now will work.
Like I said before, the studs you gave me have the correct...
Doghead,
Did a little more checking and I think I might be able to upload a picture from Tapatalk if I attach it as an attachment instead of a picture. Did this work?
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I did a little searching last night, and found a reference that seemed to hint that there is a difference between axle rating and capacity. I'll try to find it and post it here.
Edit: here it is
http://www.randpcarriages.com/trailer-technical-information--axle-chart
So it's not explicitly...
I was cleaning up my axle today, getting ready to paint it and I noticed it had a data plate covered over with paint. So I put some paint stripper on and found this:
Capacity 2700M
What does 2700M stand for? Everything on this axle seems to suggest it's a 6,000 or 7,000 lb rated axle, from...
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