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I should be there.

http://www.adv4x4.com/5938744a.html http://www.rubberduck4x4.com/store/pc/Hummer-H1-BRACKET-BACK-p6769.htm

I thought the army put that on all their hmmwv's. I have little star stickers on mine also.

Mine did

Finished my 2 inch body lift, took all Friday and Saturday. Also swapped my blown S3 box for an Nartron EESS and everything seems to be ok again, whoever designed that system should be shot.

For all the money the military spends, you would think they could design a glow plug control system for the HMMWV that wasn't complete ****. Had my KDS S3 box break for the 3rd time yesterday. Went out to start the truck and noticed no wait to start light or power drain on the volt meter. It was...

Milemarker

You can try finding m998 front springs and those might work, they are a lower rate. Otherwise you can go to the latter progressive springs that are softer with no weight but compress when you have a load. I think they require different spring perches and lower control arms though.

Remove the shims between the frame and the mounts for the rear upper control arms.

The 6.2 hose fitting is on the bottom where the 6.5 is more to the front. I have a 6.5 crossover on my 6.2 and it works fine, though I didnt use a stock hose but just cut some to length. As for the tsu threads it isn't supposed to thread all the way in, it's like a pipe fitting. As long as it...

I got mine off ebay. I'm not sure if any civilian crossover will work because it needs the port for the tsu for the glow plug controller and the port for the fan switch.

http://www.kascar.com/Real4WD/manuals/default.asp

Kascar has the old manuals for the m998 and newer ones for m1114/m1165 on their site

From what I've read on the h1 forums it seems you should have something at each of the corners of the rocker panels when lifting the body. Also the rear bed section doesn't need to be supported but you have to watch the gap where it meets the rest of the body because it flexes and can chip the...

100 amp, top parts are the regulator.

Alright, that seems to be part #3-4-11901-1 for the 12k version. I've never done a pinion before, is it just a straight swap or am I going to have to re-adjust the internals of the differential? Also for the front drive shaft I think I need a new back half that uses 1330 ujoints for the tcase...

Dont have any overall pics but found this when I tore my KDS s3 box apart. There is a diode that fried and burned the board underneath. I also had one of the relays break and leave the glowplugs on which killed my batteries.

Ok thanks a lot. I think I was also reading somewhere that the u joint size is different for the 12k differentials and the 7k ones I have. Is this true? Edit: After some digging the stock drive shaft I have now should be using 1330 ujoints. The 12k drive shaft takes 1350 ujoints. They make 1330...

Picture of the rear area when I had it apart and was inspecting it. It has the 4 bolts so it should be the later type. Also a picture of the tag, I think it was made in 03? I know it has the upgraded cooling loop.

With the length of the cummins and the 47rh I'm going to need the driveshafts resized anyways, but I need the slip yoke part that goes into the 242 from the rear since its completely different from the 218. I'm not sure if a jeep np242 driveshaft would be the same as the np242 the hummer has.