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I tend to agree with this.
I'm not advising anybody to do it but I've done it a bunch without problems but it's my truck and I know the risk. I haul 18-20 tons on my M939 lime truck and do my spreading in low range 2nd (it's the correct speed to get proper lime coverage). If I have to back up...
I've tried all kinds of bait and traps and still had a huge mouse problem at the house and the barn. I got two cats and the mouse problems disappeared. Even though the cats aren't allowed in the house, I don't have any mice in the house either. I guess the cats get them before they have a chance...
I wouldn't fool with a shear pin. Just set your relief to open at max pull and be done with it.
That's the beauty of hyd, you can set the pressure at the relief and not have to worry about breaking anything and won't have to replace shear pins.
I'm sure you will run into the same problems with a wood splitter as I did running one with a tractor. It burns too much fuel.
If you cut and split quite a bit of wood, you can pay for a small engine powerplant with money you will save in fuel and wear and tear on the M923. Other hyd equipment...
I did some looking and I assume you're talking about your M1031 thread. Only Mods can delete threads.
If you need a thread deleted, contact a mod or report the thread and we will take care of it.
No, a tee in the system won't work. We are dealing with a open center system and everything has to be plumbed in series. Here's a pretty good link that explains it- http://www.valvehydraulic.info/hydraulic-circuit-design/hydraulic-open-center-system.html
It would help if we knew what vehicle we are talking about. While most M series vehicles use the same turn signal indicator, some MVs like the CUCV does not.
The compressor does have a unloader on it. While it is true the compressor turns all the time, it only pumps air when the governor tells it to.
I've had the unloader apart on one of these compressors (it's in the top of the head) but it's been awhile back. All I really remember is I needed a...
I wouldn't pull the winch. You could just use a inexpensive diverter valve to switch between the winch and the dump. In other words, the winch valve you currently have can run the dump and the winch.
Also, there's no reason to replace the winch valve you currently have if you decide to pull the...
I'll give a word of caution on that. I've done what you described before on different applications but all the valve manufacturers that I know of advise against this. What it does is cause back pressure on the outlet of the first valve in the series. Most valves aren't designed to have back...
It's just a open center system with fluid flowing from the pump to the two spool valve. One spool of the valve controls the winch and the other controls the dump.
You'll need to replace your one spool valve with a 2 spool. I'm sure something aftermarket could be made to work if you can't find...
That's been my experience.
I may mount a valve on mine and give disconnecting the assist a try. It's bound to help but I'm not so sure it will solve all the issues. Part of the problem is the small amount the torque valve moves in and out, causing slack.
Mine isn't broken. I was just going to take it apart to see what the condition was and just out of curiosity. When I ran into the steel pins I quit. I think they purposely designed it where it couldn't be easily disassembled, possibly for liability reasons and so you'd have to send it to them...
You rebuild the cylinder or the drag link sensor? I've had a sensor laying on my workbench and I never could find out how to get it apart. Best I remember is was assembled with steel pins in blind holes to prevent disassembly.
I wouldn't worry about mileage unless it was something crazy high and even then most odometers aren't accurate.
I've actually had more problems with super low mileage trucks than I have higher mileage trucks. Trucks with super low mileage have all kinds of problems from sitting for long periods...
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