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I did the same thing to my 1988 M998. I bought the same switch as the above but for whatever reason I already had one in my shifter ? So I wired that to similar lights and bam we have backup lights. I also added a small (but super bright) light bar under the back bumper angled towards the...

I hate to sound like a broken record but any hot rod / chassis / engine shop could do a rear mounted turbo setup fairly cheap on one of these trucks. What does rear mounted mean ? Exactly what it says, as the turbo itself is not mounted under the hood rather more downstream in the exhaust...

Look into battery shut off switches from the drag racing world. Completely overbuilt, strong, will never break, and can be mounted anywhere.

LED's are far superior to the glass type bulbs they have replaced. LED's come on / react faster then a standard glass style bulb. In a brake light application this could prevent a accident. Thus why all auto manfs. use some sort of LED lighting in their cars. Less power consumption, faster...

4th is overdrive, so when the trans shifts into "4th" that's when the convertor should lock up. Try doing a foot to the floor test and see what speeds the things shifts at then.

Mine in my truck was not. Almost all the fins were smashed and the thing itself was pretty plugged up. And anyone can tell ya a good part of the reasoning that these trucks run hot is the small radiator design that was used by AM General. Have a issue, Spend the money and fix it, and off to...

The top itself was bought offa slantback being parted out. My stock soft top B and C pillars had to be pretty heavily modified for the top to fit. Its now seam sealed and welded so it aint going nowhere ! No plans to cut a window in the back wall. Love how industrial and , well, military it...

Got the Slantback top and modified "Rear Window" installed on my M998. Once its done and back in my possession I will start a build thread to let the questions fly...

On almost any vehicle when the stock bulbs are swapped for LED units a LED specific flasher is going to be needed.

I did indeed. Not as hard as you would imagine. Bought a reverse switch from a Humvee ambulance to get my reverse lights going. Just pigtailed the positive and negative from that switch to the camera setup. Works like a charm.

I went the simple route and found a dual camera system with monitor intended for big rig / 18 wheeler trucks (24 volt) for maybe $100 on Ebay. The rear camera is directly above the pintle hitch and automatically comes on - turns the screen on when the truck is put into reverse. The front...

I solved my running hot issue (well i think i did, havent drove the truck yet) by ditching the 20+ year old beat to crap radiator and replaced it with a nice / bigger capacity aluminum unit. That with some new hoses and a good tune-up and i should be good to go. From years of building hot...

Just ordered 4 for my M998 project. $400 is much better than a wheel coming off at speed in my opinion...

I recently went to a 17" wheel with a 40" tire so in theory that should up my crusing mph by abit. We shall see when i get the truck back next month...

Pretty sure it was Banks...

Swapped my stock / old bateries in my M998 to two Optima Red Tops and thing starts up like never before. In all the years I have been driving and all the vehicles I have owned I have always ran Red top batteries and never once had a failure.

Yes sir... And I say "thicker" cause with the stock wheels the center hub mounted bracket was flush with the wheel. Putting these wheels on the said bracket was "inside" the wheel, hence the spacers..

Welded on spacers to the factory wheel tie down points (or hooks or whatever they are called) so they now sit flush with the face of the wheel and not in the wheel itself. These aftermarket wheels are about 2" thicker then the stock wheels at the hubs. And before people start ragging about how...

Thanks bud, I got tons of them believe me.

Good place for a hidden kill switch...