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If you saw smoke around the firewall, I'd say its time to check the fusible links.

Yes, all CUCVs originally used the same key. Check the CUCV FAQ for more info.

My guess would be that either the belt is slipping, or the alternator is overcharging. Feel the pulley after it has been doing this for a while. Is it hotter than the GEN 2 pulley? Use a voltmeter to check the output of the alternator when it is loaded with the lights and heater blower going...

Ok, this got me curious... per the -34p, the part number for the printed circuit is 25053623. Searching for that number came up with this: http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/parts/25053623.html . So, as it appears these can be bought from fairly common sources, has anyone tried one? Mine...

The drivers side alt ( GEN 1 ) has a tach output on it, that feeds a tach buffer under the dash that is wired to the STE/ICE port on the bottom of the dash. There was at least one member here who was able to get an aftermarket tach to work with the alternator tach output, though I think he...

The passenger side alt ( GEN 2 ) *must* be an isolated ground alternator. The drivers side alt ( GEN 1 ) is an isolated alternator in the stock configuration, but this is mainly so that the military only had to stock one part. GEN 1 can be replaced with a standard off-the-shelf alternator...

Maybe see if a local alternator rebuilding shop can chase the threads for you?

Why not try posting a Wanted ad in the classifieds? There are several members who have parts trucks from which to get such things. One is hillbillywizard. I think it would be much easier to get the correct part rather then figure out what needs to be rewired to make civy parts work.

First of all, I don't see how leaving the key in the ignition with the ignition switch in the "off - remove key" position would cause a battery drain. Unless these trucks have some left over wiring for a key-in-ignition-with-door-open-reminder-buzzer or something. Secondly, I think your correct...

I'd suggest using google to search this site for hitch info. There have been many threads about adding bolt-on hitches. Most (all) that I've read were able to bend the pintle chain ears so that they are parallel to the ground to clear the receiver hitch. As for the crossbar, I think that is...

If by "messages" you mean PM's... well, you can't anymore. It was suggested that you use the "e-mail" option.

Please don't SHOUT. Thank You.

"Give a man a fish..."

No, you run the supply wire from the glow plug relay to the 12v buss block next to the brake master cylinder. The glow plugs only run on 12v. The combination of the resistance of *all* the glow plugs in combination with the resistor pack on the firewall drop the 24v supplied in the stock setup...

JJ - Please keep in mind that these gauges are not precision instruments. There are too many factors that will play into how a gauge reads on any given CUCV, etc. Accuracy of the gauge itself, tolerance of the voltage divider resistor on the back of the gauge, resistance in the contacts at the...

As I recall, this was brought on by a member, or members, having an issue with things on this forum and then deciding to take their ball ( posts / threads ) and go home.

As was mentioned in another thread, have you checked the alt pulleys after driving around for a while? Are they hot, or is one much hotter than the other? Perhaps the belts are slipping at speed, even though they appear tight. The other poster chased the problem all over the place, believing...

While its called a glow plug Relay, its not one of those little ones that clicks. It makes a big thunk.

My vote is for the glow plug relay cycling in after-glow. May have a bad glow plug system temp sensor.

Don't forget to put the bolt in to lock out the surge brakes. I don't remember the size bolt, but a search should turn it up. Oh, and magnetic trailer lights... with bungee cords... and trip permit, if needed in your state.