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The disk thing is a magnet on the inside of the cover. It is designed to attract steel particles out of the gear oil. In picture #3 you can see it is working. Bet that goop smelled like a sewer.

Last night my wife and I were out for a ride in the M38A1. We were on a rural road going down hill about 45 MPH, running with the high beams on because there were no cars in sight. Suddenly, and without warning, I lost the headlights and dash lights. :shock: There was no moon out and things...

You're right, you have to be very careful. I was basing my advice on saving electronics. I once put a CB radio in my dad's M37 (when I was about 16) using a cigarette lighter socket attached to the positive of battery #1 for +12 Volts. The negative of the socket was provided by the attachment to...

Here's how I unhook mine: 1. Unhook the positive on the rear battery - kills the 24 volt supply to the vehicle. 2. Unhook the negative on the rear battery. 3. Unhook the positive on the front battery - kills the 12 volt supply to the vehicle. 4. Unhook the negative on the front battery. Don't...

It looks like I will have to miss the Fall Camp DB and instead shoot for the Spring. The date conflicts with the Anza Borrego trip, which is sort of a family tradition.

That's the ignorance and apathy approach. :)

Funny you should mention this - I saw a mile long streak of mystery fluid on the freeway this morning, and people were driving through it! By the smell, it was Diesel fuel and not engine oil. I never did find the truck it came from. Moral of the day - do not streak on LA freeways! :)

I would also go the full rebuild route, based on the amount of crap that was circulating in the oil. Good luck on the job.

Now that is a useful tip - thanks OF!

Sounds like good weed killer to me...

With the truck cold and not running, you should be able to see some coolant when you take off the radiator cap. My dad's WWII GPW will barf out some coolant if you fill the radiator up to the top. Once it reaches the level it likes, it stays there, runs cool and doesn't spit out anymore...

Everyone, I was at the Marching Though History show in Chino, CA today when I spotted, of all things, a 1941 Bantam BRC. The owner wasn't around to answer any questions. I think the Bantam is owned by a reenactor and not a vehicle collector. The Bantam is a little rough, but defintely...

That's very sad. This steel soldier sends his condolences to IRWFO's family and friends.

eeew!

I wonder if it carried de-icer solution.

A regular plumbing-type pipe thread plug of the correct size from a hardware store will work. If you use a brass plug, it will be easier to remove at the next oil change. Just don't reef down on the plug and strip it. It is also acceptable to use pipe thread tape on a drain plug.

This is exactly how I found out that my M38A1 had a cracked block. :roll: A welder friend brazed up the crack and he put a helicoil in where the crack was near a head bolt thread. It's been four years and everything seems to be holding up.

Does it have the LDS-427 engine of an -A1?

Automation always is a good thing when it comes to jobs like cleaning up.

If you have a DMM with a frequency function, you can measure that at the AC outlets.