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As mistaken1 said earlier, you could measure the voltage drop over each cable while it is under load. Ideally, it shouldn't be much. I'm planning on replacing all of mine one of these days... On that note, anyone have suggestions for what battery clamps to use? Are the military-style clamps...

Actually, this has been puzzling me for some time. Each battery is, on its own, only 12v. Since Gen 2 outputs 24v to the 24v buss, which is made up of both batteries, I'd think that Gen 2 charges both batteries. So... While Gen 1 charges only the front battery, it also provides the ground...

So... road salts?

The only disadvantage that is commonly mentioned is that the GP system will not get the benefit of a 24v slave cable jump start from another NATO slave cable equipped vehicle. The 12v bypass for the GP system was the very fist mod I did to my truck, followed by the DH starter relay mod.

Just a thought.. what is the condition of your battery cables and terminals? Ground cables and connections? 24v feed to the starter? Perhaps one, or more, is not up to specs and a loss is happening. If so, maybe causing the starter to draw more current then it should, resulting in arcing inside...

In the stock configuration, with 24v being supplied to the GP relay via the resistor, there is the risk of a cascade failure of the GPs due to over-voltage conditions if one or more GPs fail. Re-supplying the GP relay with 12v eliminates this potential failure.

My wife has a coworker who drove CUCVs when he was in the service. Before inspections, VIP visits, etc, they were told to wipe the CUCVs down with diesel to make them presentable. I have not tried this myself.

Maybe its for the still?

I've read on here where the Gen 1 light has come on, or glowed at least, when the heater blower is on. I'm guessing it is due to the load of the blower motor and the known issues with the fan switch. It is my understanding that the Gen 1 circuit is tied in with the blower relay. Are there any...

Who makes those kick panels? Are they the ones in the LMC catalog?

While you are at it, disconnect the batteries and then disconnect this harness from the engine side of the firewall. Clean the heck out of the connectors with electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Then reassemble with a healthy does of dielectric grease!

Does the Gen 1 light come back on after you rev the engine and it returns to idle? My understanding is that it is normal for the Gen 1 and 2 light to stay on until the alts are "excited' and reach a certain RPM, then the lights go out, and usually stay out. Mine works this way.

Maybe it is not getting a clean signal from the tach connection on the alt. Have you tried the output from the tach buffer under the dash?

Any suggestions on how to clean up the case, etc? I have two spare alts I picked up and bought the kits from CUCV Electric. The alts are pretty grungy!

Hi and welcome to the site! The CUCV FAQ will answer your questions. If you want more reading material, a search of the CUCV forums will provide plenty of information.

I use my CC for everything. And not the ATM / Debit card that is a fake CC. Only the real CC has all the protections for the user. You are at your banks mercy when using an ATM / debit / fake CC!

Goes to the STE / ICE diagnostic port under the dash. Some on here have been able to use it to drive a tach.

Aren't there some spin-on setups that include the heaters? I thought I had seen them mentioned here before.

Perhaps he was running dual batts in a 12v converted truck? That is not all that uncommon, and will charge off one alternator as well.

Should check the power steering pump bracket. They are known to crack / break, which can lead to the pump bouncing around and make a racket. Perhaps also this is making the belt slip, reducing the output of the alternator.