Search results

Are you sure that is not CARC? Try some naval jelly, or commercial paint stripper

Then it is CARC you are trying to remove, not paint. AS far as I know CARC can only be removed by force, sanding, sand blasting or some other means of physical force. It is chemical resistant.

B20 here is about .10c a gal more, and will work in ALL diesel motors, 2 stroke oil added will not be compliant in 2001 and newer engines, and is not as lubrous according to this study: Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

Lacquer thinner, took the pink right off of Pinky and left the CARC behind:

The only answer is to completely repaint, then it doesn't matter. I know that is not what you want to hear but I think it is the only way. I have three tan trailers and none of them match, and none of the Army's touch ups match either, they just did not worry about it, close enough was close...

It all depends, neither one will be exact. Have you tried the CARC substitute from Rapco? I have a gallon of it but have not used any yet.

YEP, another one sacrificed to the off road gods... "it's just an old piece of Army krap, why NOT cut it up?"

I might paint my M109A3 that way, she is currently some form of non desert MERDC, easy enough to add two colors and make her desert MERDC

According to the Diesel Place test the most lubrious fuel additive is by far 20% Bio Diesel (B20), which I am glad to say is sold around here by Shell, there are SOME benefits to living in hippyland...

Where is Ed?

I just found this photo on GSA:

Your trailer shrank...

I followed jeep-Jeep and Buckmaw the last few miles of the trip, they made it home about 11pm. The truck runs great, and reportedly drives as good as it looks. They had some trouble starting her but I found the fuel injector purge routine in the TM for them and they got her going. The report...

I used Castrol this time, it always did better in my air cooled VW motors so I thought I would give it a whirl in the CUCV. So far the truck seems to have a little more power and run smoother than with 15-40 Rotella, but that might just be in my head:) One thing I HAVE noticed is the exhaust...

Something like that came with my M416, not at all strong enough for a M101, but still pretty clever

I have a 50', she has been dubbed the "Anvil Conda", like wrestling a big snake made of anvils! The price was right (FREE), but it will be much nicer as two 25' cables.

What he said! The slop is unnerving at first, especially for experienced ball hitch users who are used to little or no slack, but you will get used to it. The ease of use and range of movement makes it easier to accept the bumps:)

You could use military LED composite lights on the trailer and an adapter and run them on either vehicle, they run from 10v-36v. You should build a roadster out of that truck...

I use a pintle/ball hitch from Harbor Freight, that way I can go both ways without modifying the trailer.

The M116A2E1 is the one ton version of the M116A2. It should have a heavier frame and more leaves on the springs. It DOES weigh more and sit higher than a standard M116A2/M101A2, at least mine does... Put military LED composite lights on it and make a plug adapter and you are good to go!