Search results

I dont't think the issue was so much the wrong grade as it was size. If I had used a 3/8 bolt rather than a 1/4 I think it would have done better, however a hitch pin IS the correct tool for the job.

I didn't think I needed a grade 8! I am smarter now...

The dampner is bad so it lurches violently during braking, I ordered a new one, but it is not in yet.

I learned something this week: DO NOT substitute a 1/4" bolt and nut for the proper pin to lockout an unruly surge brake on a M101A2! Tractor Supply sells a 3/8" hitch pin that is 4.25" long for $2.99, THAT is the proper tool for the job. The bolt did the job on a 15 mile trip with an empty...

Buckmaw and I swapped the bodies this week, actually easier than I thought it would be! Once we found and removed all the bolts we stood the bodies up on end and swapped the frames under them, them flopped them back, easy! We almost had a mishap when sliding the full tub back on the E1 frame...

Likewise with the M101A2 trailers, all three of mine have M101 beds on frames marked M116A2, the M116 is the designation of the bare chassis and depending on what was put on top the designation would change. Texas law likes to use the numbers found on a vehicle's frame (not the body) for...

That did it, THANKS!

According to the man I spoke with this morning, Toledo Actuators does not sell direct to the public! He gave me the name and number of a dealer in Houston that should have the part, still on the hunt.

Unknown, that is what I will need to figure out. Between the fenders would be the easiest to build, and to waterproof, and will give me some horizontal surfaces to use for outside storage and work surfaces, but will be skinny inside. Maybe somewhere in the middle, some fender inside and some...

My next step is to do a frame swap. This frame is an M116A2E1, which in capacity terms means she is a 1 ton, in practical terms it means she is taller (4" frame vs 3", and more leaves in the springs) and heavier so she is less than level behind a M1009 and harder on the truck to pull. I have a...

Yes

I thought about a blue wrench of some sort, but I did not want to set anything on fire...

Have you measured it? I think that will be too wide for a M35 cargo bed, it is NOT a S280

Not exactly, the grinder part happened yesterday after freezing my nards off at the parade, fixing my non shifting M1009, and two trips to HF/Lowes to get the right discs for the borrowed grinder... sawzall part was today after the car show...

So I have decided to build a teardrop style camper on a M101 trailer I have and had a thought: instead of removing the body tub why not cut off all of the vertical surfaces and make a flat bed, like a M116 genset trailer? A flat bed would give me fenders and a wide flat (sort of flat) surface to...

You still scored well! You may find the A2 suits your purposes better than an A3. The A2 is the same width as a CUCV (and a civilian pickup truck) and the A3 matches the track of a HMMWV, which means threading holes in traffic and parking in normal spaces will be tricky with an A3. The downside...

I have seen that one before, it IS very nice. I want to go with more of a teardrop style to save weight because I will be hauling it behind my M1009, and they are NOT tow trucks!

Yep, and shoot'n stuff is FUN! What was not mentioned is the 5.56 round that made my new holes came from a 10.5" barrel, and would have been traveling faster from a 20" A1/A2 rifle, so either way 5.56 has more than enough ass to do the job!

Yes, he WAS there, kept putting his shades back on although we never saw him take them off, then his horrible acting made Taco the Dog barf up her hamburgers and raccoon...

So according to the HFRR numbers (lower is better), and your cost per tank factor, we should all be using Opti-lube Summer Blend with an HFRR rating of 447 and a cost of .68c a tank. 2% bio has an HFFR of 221 and an undetermined cost ($2.80~ here for 20% bio), and two stroke oil has a HFFR of...