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I’m not sure how to check the continuity with the bulb in place. See pic. I can’t get my meter leads to a place on the wires. Would you cut the wires again and then do it? I did check continuity with bulb out and placed one lead on the ground piece and the other on piece that pinches the bulb...
Update!! Ok. I have changed switches like: turn signal switch in the column, brake light indicator, headlight switch,
Changed relays behind the cluster taped to the top of the dash, two relays beside the Doghead relay, new flasher relay, new turn signal relay
All new fuses. And fuse box was...
I am starting to agree with you. I think using your “complete the circuit first” mentality, I’m going to clean or replace switches that might be problematic and then start tracing continuity for crossed wires. and that brings us to todays questions:
headlight switch: see pics but both my old...
Thanks for the help! I still need to clean the rear grounds this weekend. As a recap I have:
Cleaned Grounds at: driver and passenger side of radiator, spider in cab, engine to firewall, new cables from busbar outward To batteries and engine ground. And brake lights housing grounds.
I have also...
Thanks! Both front clip grounds on driver and passenger side of radiator have been sanded and cleaned.
I actually replaced the brake light indicator. But it’s possible it’s not the right one despite the stores description.
The cluster light on constant confuses me. So it indicates the opposite...
okie dokie, I installed all the bulbs. Cleaned the turn signal which looked pretty good overall but still cleaned it up. Here’s what we have now.
Service light on, lights off with left turn signal engaged: results in left gauge cluster and front and rear turn signals blinking at normal pace...
I agree with all of the above. There was a small change since plugging in the cluster.
Service light switch in the up position + headlight switch off : no turn signals or brake lights
Service light switch in the up position + headlight switch ON : constant brake lights, and when I turn on left...
Ok. So I couldnt wait. i put brand new bulbs in the gauge cluster for the blinkers. Plugged it In. The side markers don’t blink if the lights are off. But when I turn the lights on, both blinker turn solid green on the cluster and the side markers turn to constant on.
I’m embarrassed to even say that I didn’t even think about not having cluster hooked up would be causing an issue. I assumed the flasher relay would still trigger.
Then that’ll be done right after I clean the switch. I was waiting to put the cluster in when I could take the time to really clean up the whole cluster panel.
Cleaning the turn signal switch will be next on my list. The side markers are what are constant on when I use the blinker with lights off. And I haven’t actually connected the cluster yet but I’ll try that after I give the switch a cleaning. Any other ”to do’s“ are appreciated!
Yeah, I have read through the diagrams. Honestly, I am wondering if it is a flasher relay issue or a fuse box issue but I have cleaned the grounds, cleaned the bulb contacts all the way around. And no matter what I do I always come up with these combinations:
Blackouts off and right BO switch...
We love these things in AL. They’re everywhere. People even daily drive them. I’m in the middle of a restore of a m1009. Mostly done. Just got the reassembly to do. But the turn signals and brake light wiring is giving me fits. But I’ll figure it out.
Does anyone know the wire in the pic? It is located on the drivers side headlight harness. I have located all blackout light, headlight, running light, turn signal wiring…. I think. Any help would be appreciated. I am currently running down a turn signal issue. And yes, i have tried to look at...
Has anyone used this product for repainting their trucks? It is Sherwin Williams Kem 400 Enamel. The guy in the link says he can get all federal standards 595 matched including army, Air Force and marine colors. What does everyone think?
https://www.redlegcamo.com/product-page/fed-std-595-dtm-paint