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Did a couple searches and nothing immediately came up on this. After side armor is removed during demil the body is left with holes. A couple have a nut/threaded backing, most just the aluminum body drilled out. What are some things you guys have done for a better cosmetic effect?

Yea, I got my doors from Adam at West Kentucky Surplus as well. He said they are stopping production of the RV camper window aluminum style, they are still on the website but listed "out of stock". It was a slight pain measuring and drilling out the holes and had to widen out the holes in a few...

I wondered why mine were so hard to get off and back on. I impacted them off, at no point could I spin them by hand. Never had that on any other vehicle, I wasn't sure if it was the paint on the stud. Probably some USMC private just blasting them with an impact?

Thanks! Some videos on YouTube recommend teflon tape for the drain plug. I will use some loctite on the spindle cover. Also, if I find some are not bent on another axle I just can tap them down with a screw driver and hammer?

The pictures I took are all from the same axle. I just spun the hub so could show all sides. I did a partial screenshot of one of the TMs for the diagram in section 21-6.

I took off my spindle nut cover and it has 4 groups of 2 slots on the nut, so 8 total slots. I only have tabs bent into 1 group (2 slots) of the 8 total slots. Just to be clear, this is proper correct? I have attached pictures. What should I use for the gasket maker? Conventional gear oil fine...

Ok, I will be on the look out for smoke. What could cause an injection pump to work all the time except for when the engine is semi-warm?

Yes. I have both driven it to operating temp (via dash gauge) and let it idle to operating temp. Wait light quickly flashes if shutting it off after a warm up when restarting. This should be normal. The engine starts well if under, say, 30 mins [i.e. still hot]. That 1-3 hour mark, depending on...

The wait light quickly flashes off, but (depending on the ambient air temp) it will start because it is actually warm. Today the air was in the 50s F and 75 mins was long enough for it to cool and not want to start, but not long enough to cool so much that the wait light fires the glow plugs...

Try the other temp sensor? Smart box sucks? Again, it works perfect if engine is cold. If less than maybe 30 mins, engine is still hot enough to not matter. I tried today at about the 75 min mark and it did not want to start.

I installed a new Nartron TSU from Mac. Still occurs. What now?

I was referring to static electrical buildup from the turbocharger effecting coolant. Same engine, yea.

Some crap about HOAT coolant and they are selling OAT. I always thought any green was for cast and other stuff (like orange GM Dexcool) for aluminum. Not sure how well green Prestone holds up with turbocharger static over time?

Probably just fine for naturally aspirated, but I am worried with a turbo, plus mine is a tad low already.

Just find one for Nartron, correct? I heard these have to match the start box. This is something I must get from hummerpartsguy or Mac Motors correct? MME, Federal, and Eastern Surplus have some cheaper; but some even look unlabled/unbranded. Not sure if those are for the EESS boxes or just...

Thanks for the reply! So it needs more juice for the display than the 12V already coming to the trans? Yea the TH400 is mechanical. Extra storage under the driver passenger seat (no TCM). I took mine out a couple times and having a flexible magnet was essential. I have the turbo setup...

Has anyone used a US Shift Quick 2 in their HMMWV? If you tried the Quick 4 did you actually use a custom tune or stick to the diesel tune? How hard are these to connect? Where did you run the wires up? Did you remove the factory TCM after installation? For reference, the Quick 2 is still for...

Do you know which one the dash gauge reads from?

I got the 6.5 L turbo