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Yep, that's my problem too. I keep trying to find a relatively inexpensive diesel alternative that swaps in without having to do a lift (i.e. Cummins needs a lift to clear front axle). I am fairly sure I have a failed head gasket or more likely, cracked head as I am loosing coolant but no...

Sadly not many miles, a few hundred at this point but I do know a few people who have had 10's of thousands of miles on theirs without issues. Biggest thing is changing the fluid every 5000 miles.

I have been happy with my GV unit. I found one on FB Marketplace and by the time I was done, I was in about $1000 less than new. Running it behind the TH400/NP208. Gave me about 10 mph more at the same RPM than without. Best thing is the gear splitting. Had a few hills where splitting...

WOW!!! Never seen something like that happen before. Guess it's good these old trucks don't have all of the plastic and sound deadening stuff, so nothing to catch fire.

A few years back I took my original radiator to a local shop and they were able to recore it for me. They said these are one of the largest radiators out there, even bigger than some motorhomes. Ran about $600 but it works great. I am surprised your shop could not get a core for it.

Thanks for that info. Paint job is looking great, even at one coat!

Was that sprayed on and what did you use to spray it with?

If you are going electric, electric pumps like to PUSH fuel, not pull it. You want to have the pump as close and low to the fuel tank as you can get it. Up by the mechanical pump is not a good place and will likely cause it to fail sooner than it should and/or not work as well as it should.

Hi all, Not sure if folks know but it seems the the rear mounting hardware on M1008/M1010/M1031 are using 9/16" bolt and the upper stud is 9/16" shaft even though the nut would have you think it was a 1/2" (1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks are 1/2" hardware). I found with Bilstein 5100/5160/5165 shocks...

I calibrated my tach (Speedhut gauge), which runs off the "W" terminal off one of my alts by using this unit. You put a piece of reflective tape on the balancer (comes with the tape) and using this, it will give you the RPM's. Then adjust the tach to match. Easy peasy...

Adding to the above items, make sure your fairlead is synthetic rope compatible.

Actually both have a CDR valve, that is just normal for the GM diesels. The C code intake does have an EGR valve built into the manifold intake housing (look down where the air filter sits, it is very obvious the difference.

This IS the one to buy. Don't get the cheap Chinese made ones. This is what I put in mine.

Bowtie Overdrive has built some good units. I had one in a '68 C10 truck I built 20+ years ago. They were really new on the aftermarket trans scene, as there were not many doing 700R4 back then. One thing to note, the TV cable (it is not a kick down cable) MUST be setup 100% correctly. It...

If you have a button for the glow plugs, that basically bypasses the glow plug controller. Time to get a test light out and trace wires to figure out if something is not getting power between the button and solenoid. Without seeing what has been done, kind of hard to troubleshoot. Who knows...

The PS reservoir is not part of this era truck, which means the PS pump is not the correct one. I circled in red the factory setup (best pic I have) and the pump/reservoir is all one unit. I believe there are 3 brackets that hold this on as well. Whatever was rigged up in your truck, is...

I am sure you have checked this but low fluid level will cause those types of symptoms. If not that, then internal issue.

All I can say is I HATE DRUM BRAKES Nice job on fixing

Bummer it didn't solve it. If you're getting black smoke at times other than full throttle, I would guess you are over fueling. No idea if that could cause the tapping. Yeah, I know the disheartening part. Putting work into my rig and camper build to likely have a bad head gasket and/or...

Yeah, mine click but it wasn't strong enough to actually move the arm. If you have a known good one, try to swap.