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Honestly, before I would spend the money on doing an OD in a M1009, since you already have 3.08 gears (versus 4.56 of the other M10xx series), I would do like suggested and get a Tiny Tach (which I had in my first M1010) and get some real RPM numbers. Based on 3.08 gears, 33" tall tires at 65...

If you go that route, definitely do like I did and get a fixed yoke output. Slip yoke and double u-joints don't play well together.

Ah, missed the fact you have a M1009. Yes, my M1010 is still on 4.56 so your 3.08 would be nice for the OD. Here is a pic installed. It sits up higher than the transfer case. One thing to note though, it shortens your driveshaft about 16". On the longer wheelbase truck its not a big issue...

I am running a Gear Vendors OD and comfortably cruise at 65 mph and can get to 75-80 mph in my M1010 (flying brick). It works nice but it is still not going to give the truck a modern vehicle feel as far as driving speeds. It does help and I like that I can split gears when climbing grades...

With the Gear Vendor OD, I can cruise comfortably at 65 mph and can get to 75-80 if needed.

Drove the M1010 to the Flying Leatherneck's air museum at USMC Miramar. Looked right at home there. :)

Yeah, who knows what they did. You need to figure out what that switch is triggering. My guess is they didn't understand how the CUCV's are wired and it is likely back feeding from the front battery which is the one that supplies 12v to all of those systems.

Hi all, Curious what is a fair price for a complete but gently used Banks Turbo kit with exhaust?

Master battery shut off??? I have not seen that in any M1010 before.

Glad you found it. That is not the factory crimp or terminal. Someone changed those at some point.

The lights are 12v, NOT 24v. The only system on the truck that is 24v is the starting system. Everything else runs on 12v. The M1010 also had the rear box heater and A/C that ran on 24v but M1008/M1009 don't have those.

I am running Toyo M/T in that size. Had them on the stock wheels but moved to Ford wheels that were 7" wide, due to a couple of bent stock wheels. No issues.

No, the military fill necks are huge compared to civilian ones. Nothing in the parts store will fit unless you change out the fill neck with a civilian model. The necks and caps are unique to the M10xx series.

Or you can use something like this optical tach, which is what I used to set the RPM's for my Speedhut diesel tach. Worked great and is cheap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q8L894

Hillbilly Wizard https://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-parts/cucv-fuel-cap-rare/

Not sure if you can order from Jegs or not but this is a very similar part. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10521/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtAfWNbc-SV607_OFGKcdN19_dZ2TxGR7BrgP5hvR5z4wwR-Z839ZJIaApcfEALw_wcB

Looking good. I am at this process in my M1010 build and haven't 100% decided on wall panel replacement. What fiberglass panels did you use?

It's called 80/20 aluminum. Google search will show different vendors.

Most all aftermarket wheels are lug centric versus factory wheels which tend to be hub centric. There are millions of aftermarket wheels on vehicles that do not have any problems with being lug centric. Big thing is making sure you have the correct lug nuts for the type of wheel.

Do you have a build thread or info about how you did this? Very sweet burb!