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I replaced the idler about two years ago with the original A0/A1 style. The pitman arm was and is still good. Now worn with approximately 2k road miles on. I’m going to step up to the A2 style arms this time around. I’m debating weather to upgrade the drag link at the same time. Q: are the tie...

Replaced 7.5k LF & RF axle. Autozone. Yeah I’m aware of the quality concerns with off shore parts. The price and warranty was right. Also took the opportunity to replace the hub input seal for good measure. Component wise the build looks very similar to the 10k axle specification.

Removed all rear upper A arm shims. It’s a big job but it did go much faster after getting the procedure practiced. Off to the alignment shop Monday to see how camber turns out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+100 I performed the same adjustments on my M998. It does help [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bracket is well diagramed in the parts TM. Four rivets to the C pillar and a through bolt to the body seam. Structural? -no Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I have also been considering the same upgrade. You’re a wealth of information in this community. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picked up 5 radio trays from GovPlanet. Took the best components of each and mounted on my M998. I have the tall mount turbo leg/bar assembly for the rack but decided against the conversion at this time. The old style M998 feet seem to work just fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Set front toe in per TM. 3/16” toe in and called it good enough. Centered steering wheel after many, many adjustments… Removed all shims from LF control arms to get positive camber under control. LF is nearly 0 degrees camber now. Still have to do the same to RF which is running about 1...

Finished 60A generator brush replacement and VR adjustment M998 60A alternator not charging https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-60a-alternator-not-charging.202938/[URL] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Done! The alternator has been reinstalled and adjusted to 28V output per the TM! [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New brushes installed. Encapsulated Holders/wires/capacitor in silicone to ease replacement in the future if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slip rings polished up with 400 grit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brush holder released from it’s epoxy cocoon. A pencil tip soldering iron worked great in this case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Voltage regulator adjustment plug was stripped/frozen. Drilled and extracted so the VR can be adjusted in the future. 10M Tapered plug replacement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brushes are on the way [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found TM 9-2920-225-34 :) Looks like two choices from what I can gather: 1) de solder the rectifier to stator leads and remove rectifier housing 2) remove epoxy vibration potting from yellow capacitor/brush housing to remove brush housing from rectifier

Voltage regulator and rectifier cleaned in preparation for service. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, progress. Removal and disassembly confirms worn brushes. One bush is entirely disconnected from the lead. Ordering a brush kit to repair. Voltage regulator looks good visually. Q: How are the brushes replaced? Looks like the rectifier housing needs to be separated from the main body to...

Thanks! I just happened to find Southern Automotive in the archive and called them today. I did not find their trouble shooting content but hope to speak to them directly tomorrow. Hopefully this is as simple as replacing the regulator and brushes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Editorial this silicone potting is great. A PITA to remove for access to term 568 though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk