Search results

I read about contact cleaners on the forum. And have a can of deoxit on order should be here by the weekend. Outside Temp hovering in the -5° to - 10 °F with major snowstorm coming, should have waited a few more days before moving the 803 outside :). Had to do major surgery to the bodywork...

Moved the 803 to its permanent location , and did initial load test. The double throw switch and sub panel in the shop worked as planned. Loaded at 20.6A -46.12A - 54.37A. Water temp constant at 190°, oil pressure 40psi ,Hz from 60.5 at no load to 59.5 at 54.37 I reviewed a post from KennyO...

It is a round metal button , flat spot ensure that only one of the opposing brake can be ON at the time

Correct

Thanks, just to confirm does this looks ok to you. ? The way I'm setup. The genset can't backfeed the panels as their is an interlock on both side of the double throw switch. And the genset neutral is is engaged on both side regardless?

The shop sub panel is either backfeed from the shop 200amp via 60 amp breaker or from genset ( orange interlock)

House and shop are seperate building and new built . I have 2 distinct 200amps service , one feed the main panel in the house the second 200 amp service feeds the main panel in the shop. -( 2 panel in the house, main one for heat pump , dryer , heated floor ects , and a back up for...

The blue wire is in fact my white neutral , the main interlock to feed house is GFI protected that why white(blue) red and black on breaker. If I screwed up , feedback is welcome

3- if double throw switch is on shop it feed subpanel in shop. Subpanel is fed by main panel or genset. Interlock for safety

2 - if the double throw switch is on house it goes to the main panel who was already wired for genset with interlock ( feeds the house backup)

K I'll break it down main wire is teck90 6/4 ( 1 red,1 black, 1 blue , 1 bare copper) ( using blue wire as my white neutral) . Power from 803 first goes to double throw switch. ( I can choose to power house backup or shop sub panel)

Just finished setting up for 220v manual transfer - main switch to give me option to provide backup power to house or shop. - Shop Sub panel , -feed to house - Interlock at shop and house panel. 803A unbounded. ( LOTS of good advices on the forum).

Ray, find a few pics attached, it has its own fuel pump. Water from outlet at water pump and back to block. Bring temp up to 150° in about 6 min.

It is the Arctic heather kit, diesel powered. Will confirm tomorrow but bring the engine temp to 140 or so by circulating the antifreeze through the block. I’ll dig out my TM for reference # ( I followed guyfang ethos “read the TM” :). )

I put a few short video on YouTube under “ Denver Caitland”

It's alive, :), my thanks to guyfang, ray70 & jmenende. Lots of good advices and many tips on the forum. Cleaned injectors, injectors pump ( gary at gsj@gci.net was also very helpful in locating a used IP ). Water temp seems to be holding at 190°, cylinder hold around 195° when fully...

I just measured off 803a . Very similar for the spring as above, included measurements for the other 2 pieces.

Guyfang, I can't figure out how to do a PM , so I will do it on open forum at the risk of exposing complete ignorance :) . I have a diesel engine with fuel, air, compression, mechanical governor and solenoid that engage as it should and "crank" using S1 or dead crank switch ( I have short...

Thanks replacement MPU scheduled to arrive Dec 30th. Will update

I removed, cleaned , adjusted / readjusted 1/2 dozen times. Looks ok but doesn't produce the 2.5 to 3 volts. I have a new one on order. Just wondering if that alone is the reason engine turns but will not start ( no sputtering ects. - similar to gaz engine with no spark)